Crappie Fishing in Missouri

Crappie Fishing in Missouri

Crappie Killer by Blue Ribbon Lures

They're pretty much everywhere in Missouri

Crappie are common in most of Missouri's large reservoirs, rivers,
and streams, as well as many smaller public and private ponds.

When and how to catch them

Spring—fish the shallows

In spring when crappie are spawning in the shallows, anyone can cast a
minnow and bobber toward the bank and catch a ton of fish. Crappie may
spawn as early as mid-March in the southern part of the state and as
late as the end of May in northern Missouri. The spawn generally occurs
when water temperatures reach 55F. The depth at which crappie spawn
depends on water clarity. In stained or muddy water, they may spawn as
shallow as 1 or 2 feet. In exceptionally clear water, they may spawn as
deep as 20 feet or more.


During the spring spawning period, use a trolling motor to move
slowly and quietly close to the shoreline. Flip a small (1/32 to 1/16
ounce) jig into the shallow water along the shore. Move slowly and hit
every nook and cranny around rocks, woody debris and vegetation. Pea
gravel banks are also preferred spawning locations. Once you locate
crappie, stop and continue fishing that spot until the fish stop biting
or they’re not big enough to suit you. If a spring cold front sends
crappie out to deeper water, concentrate on steep banks. Crappie won't
be very far off the bank.


On waters that get high fishing pressure, try casting a tiny jig
right onto the bank, retrieving the bait with the rod tip straight in
the air, and erratically jerking the bait near cover on the bank. You
often get strikes right next to the boat after the crappie follow the
bait back.

Summer—move to deeper water or try night fishing

Post-spawn through September, crappie tend to stay in brush located
in 15 to 20 feet of water, about 10 or 15 feet down. Concentrate on
standing timber along creek channels and on brush piles out on the main
lake. Vertical jigging works well when fishing the brush.


Fishing around concrete bridge piers is a productive technique for
catching crappie in Missouri’s large reservoirs during summer. Focus on
piers in water at least 20 feet deep. Vertically jig a minnow next to
the pier beginning at a depth of about ten feet and slowly work deeper
until you locate fish. If you’re not successful in locating and catching
fish after several attempts, move to another pier.


Fish deeper brush near the thermocline (where the water suddenly gets
cooler with depth) during hot summer months with split shot, a light
wire hook and a small shiner or fathead minnow hung over the side of the
boat.


During the hot Missouri months of July and August, try night fishing
for crappie! Artificial lights such as floodlights on docks, street
lights and commercially available floating and submersible lights
attract insects and small baitfish that will in turn attract crappie.
Fish much as you would during the daylight hours with either minnows or
artificial baits, fishing at different depths until you locate fish.

Fall—try the docks

Crappie are generally very predictable and aggressive in October and
November. Docks are a prime location for fall crappie, where they can be
caught in the upper 10 feet of the water column.


Cast into the back of a boat slip or along the edges, letting the jig
sink for 2 or 3 seconds, and then retrieve slowly. Crappie will also
move into shallow water on warm days in the fall, where you can catch
them in the same brush piles they inhabit during the spawn.

Winter—enjoy some of the best fishing of the year

Unfortunately, many anglers stow away the boat and fishing tackle
before the first snow flies. Those who don’t can experience some of the
best fishing of the year and have their favorite lake all to themselves.


You can find crappie in deep water (20 to 40 feet) in the winter, but
they will move into shallower water during a string of warm days. The
key to catching crappie in the winter is to use a very slow retrieve. In
cold water, crappie will not chase a fast-moving lure like they will
during the warmer months.


In addition, winter crappie tend to congregate in large, dense
schools near structure instead of scattering in loose schools over a
large area. Casts to one side of a brush pile may yield nothing while
the other side may produce a fish on nearly every cast.

Tackle and technique

If you talk to a dozen crappie anglers, you will likely get a dozen
different opinions regarding the best way to catch them, the best jig
color, the best line to use, and so on. In reality, two anglers in the
same boat can be using two completely different techniques and baits,
and they will both be catching fish. The key is to not get stuck on any
one approach. Experiment until you find a technique that works for you. I usually begin with different colored tube jigs or the Crappie Killer.


Crappie are attracted to woody cover regardless of the time of year. A
good rule of thumb is to fish shallow during spring and fall, then fish
deep during summer and winter. However, a string of warm days in
January can send fish into water less than 5 feet deep, while a strong
cold front in April can send them to the depths for a few days. When
trying to locate crappie, target brush piles or other cover at a variety
of depths, and let the fish tell you what depth they prefer on a given
day.


When crappie are active, they will hit a bait presented in close
proximity to cover. When they are not so active, you may need to get
your bait down into the brush to be successful. The two most effective
ways to do this are vertical jigging and casting. A weedless jig works
best for these types of presentation.

Vertical jigging

To fish a bait vertically, simply drop it straight down into the
brush until it hits bottom. Then slowly reel up until you get a bite.
Note the depth at which you get a bite and concentrate on fishing at
that depth. Another productive method is to use a very small jigging
spoon. Fish vertically over deep brush and raise and lower your jigging
spoon 1-2 feet. Crappie will often hit the spoon on the fall while it is
fluttering. This is a good technique to use when you run out of minnows
or simply get tired of re-baiting your hook.

Casting

When fishing shallow brush or in very clear water, you may need to
back away from the brush and cast. Toss your bait past the brush and let
it sink to the bottom on a tight line. Slowly retrieve until you
contact the brush. When you feel your bait come over a limb, let it sink
again. Keep doing this until you clear the brush. By doing this, your
lure is actually penetrating down into brush instead of just skimming
along the outer edges.

Bobbers

These are not just for young or inexperienced anglers. There are days
when crappie will only pick up a jig or minnow that is hovering nearly
motionless. Again, you may need to experiment with the depth of your
bait to find the fish.

Bluegill Fishing Tips

Bluegill Fishing

Brim Reaper by Blue Ribbon Lures

Bluegill are relatively easy to catch, especially if you are using
the proper tackle, bait and technique. Following a few basic principles
will greatly increase your success at catching bluegill.

Tackle selection—the lighter the tackle, the better

The bluegill has a small mouth, even when it reaches adulthood. Young
bluegill, like most small fish, feed on tiny, aquatic invertebrates
called zooplankton. As bluegill grow, they’re able to eat larger
creatures, such as insects. Bluegill are sight feeders and feed
primarily during daylight hours.


Bluegill do not grow to huge sizes, so select your rod and reel
accordingly. An ultra-light rod and reel with light line will allow you
to feel the bluegill's bite more effectively, and you will catch more
fish. In clear water, light line is less likely to be detected by fish.
Line weights from 2- to 6-pound test work best.

Bait and hooks—keep them small

Regardless of whether you use live bait or lures, you will need to
keep them small if you want to catch a lot of bluegill. Hook sizes from
No. 6 to No. 10 are most effective. Hooks with long shanks will allow
you to more easily remove them from the bluegill's tiny mouth, and thin
wire hooks work best for holding small baits. Live bait works especially
well for bluegill. The most common baits are worms and night crawlers
because they are readily available and bluegill love them. The key is to
use only a piece of a worm—just enough to cover the hook. Other
productive baits include crickets, grasshoppers, red wrigglers and meal
worms. Artificial lures also work well for bluegill. The Brim Reaper might be the best lure made for bluegill. Some of the best
lures are black jigs (1/32 ounce and smaller) and tiny spinners. Small
flies and poppers are very effective and can be used while flyfishing or
in conjunction with a bobber for easy casting.

Techniques—whatever works for you

Bluegill can be caught with a variety of techniques, all of which can
be effective under the right conditions. The key is to use a technique
you’re confident with and enjoy.

• Bobber fishing—The most popular technique for
  catching bluegill in spring and summer is the bobber and worm or Brim Reaper. This
  method is not only popular because it is easy, especially for kids, but
  because it works. Bluegill don't like to chase their food, so a slow or
  almost motionless presentation is often best. A small bait hanging below
  a bobber is usually more than a bluegill can resist. Be sure to use a
  small bobber—just big enough to float your bait. If your bobber is too
  large, the bluegill will feel the resistance and spit out the bait.
  Setting your bobber from 1 to 3 feet deep will usually do the trick, but
  if fish are deeper you will need to fish deeper. Slip bobbers are a
  must for the serious bluegill angler because they allow you to fish at
  any depth. I prefer a split shot about 6 inches above my Brim Reaper.
• Bottom fishing—Another effective technique is to
  cast your bait and let it slowly sink to the bottom. Use as little
  weight as possible so that your bait sinks slowly and so bluegill don't
  feel resistance when they pick it up. Using an ultra-light rod and reel
  with light line will allow you to cast your bait with no weight at all.
  If your bait sinks slowly, bluegill will often bite as it is sinking. If
  your bait makes it to the bottom without a bite, watch your line
  closely for a sign that a bluegill has picked your bait off the bottom.
  If you don't get a bite in a few minutes, reel in and cast to a
  different spot. This technique is especially effective when bluegill are
  in deeper water in early spring or following a cold spell.
• Drift fishing—A very effective method for catching
  bluegill, especially in late summer when bluegill are often suspended in
  open water, is to drift across the lake in a boat with baits down 10 to
  15 feet. Because bluegill will likely be found in schools, repeatedly
  drift through those areas where you have caught fish.
• Fly fishing—Although you may think fly fishing is
  for trout, it is also one of the most effective, exciting ways to catch
  bluegill. Because small insects are a major part of the bluegill's diet,
  an artificial fly resembling these insects is usually irresistible.
  Bluegill are not as picky as some trout, so most fly patterns will work.
  The best flies are typically small and black.

Location—fish where the bluegill are

Using the proper tackle, bait and technique is critical in catching
bluegill, but it is important to know where to find bluegill in a lake,
depending on the season. Because bluegill use different habitats at
different times of the year, the best locations in spring probably won't
be as good in late summer or winter.

• Spring and early summer—Bluegill spawn in spring
  and early summer, and this is a good time to catch them. When water
  temperatures exceed 70F, begin looking for spawning bluegill in shallow
  water. The tell-tale "elephant tracks"—groups of nearly round craters
  that mark spawning nests—will give away their location. Once you find a
  spawning colony, take care not to spook the bluegill as you fish. Cast
  beyond the nests and retrieve your bait through the colony. Male
  bluegill will guard nests against intruders and will aggressively take
  small lures.
• Late summer—You can readily catch bluegill after
  the spawning season, when they move into deeper water as summer
  progresses. In summer, bluegill can be found along the edges of weed
  beds, around brush piles, stake-beds and flooded timber, especially if
  deeper water is nearby. Bluegill are commonly found in water more than
  10 feet deep in summer and typically hang just above the thermocline
  (the depth where water temperature changes dramatically and below which
  oxygen levels are usually low). Best fishing is usually in the morning
  and evening when the fish are most active.
• Fall—Look for bluegill in the same locations as
  late summer and also fish shallower water near weed beds, brush or other
  types of cover. While morning and evening are the best times to fish
  during summer, midday fishing success often improves as water cools in
  the fall.
• Winter—Look for bluegill in water 12 to 20 feet
  deep. They school near underwater structures, usually near the bottom.
  Bluegill do not feed as actively in winter, so be sure to use small
  baits and slow presentation. Using light tackle and line is also
  essential because bluegill bite very lightly in winter, and these bites
  would go undetected with less sensitive tackle.

Finding a good lake or pond

If you just want to catch a lot of fish regardless of size, most
lakes and ponds will provide ample bluegill action.


Don't overlook farm ponds! Some of the best bluegill fishing can be
found in ponds, and many of the biggest bluegill on record were caught
in farm ponds. To find a good pond, talk with other anglers and pond
owners to get some tips. Always ask permission to fish on private ponds.

Ice fishing for bluegill

Ice fishing in Missouri is usually restricted to the northern part of
the state and varies in duration from year to year. When conditions are
right, bluegill fishing can be fast and furious through the ice. Look
for actively feeding bluegill near the bottom around weed beds,
brushpiles, and points in water 12 to 15 feet deep. It is helpful to
note these locations during summer fishing trips. You can also use a
portable depth finder when ice fishing to look for brushpiles and check
depth. Fishing is usually best soon after the ice forms and slows as
winter progresses and ice thickens. When fishing has slowed in mid to
late winter, concentrate fishing effort during dawn and dusk hours.
Fishing can be very slow during mid day but outstanding at dawn and
dusk. Never judge the quality of ice fishing on a lake until you have
fished the last half hour of daylight.


Ice fishing requires some special gear. If the ice isn't too thick, a
spud bar will work. An ice auger works best in most situations and will
allow you to easily move to different locations until you find the
right spot. Carry a dipper to clear the hole of ice chips after drilling
and to keep the hole ice-free while fishing. A sled is very handy to
haul around your gear and carry your fish. Ice-fishing rods are short
(often made from broken rod tips) and often with pegs instead of reels.
Using a small bait and hook is especially important in winter because
fish, including bluegill, are not aggressive and don't feed as much.
Standard gear for bluegill includes small, brightly colored hooks (often
called tear drops), a small bobber just large enough to suspend your
bait, and live bait such as wax worms, meal worms, mousies or goldenrod
grubs. Set the bobber so your bait is within a foot of the bottom. Every
30 seconds or so twitch your lure a little—this will often induce a
bite. You must watch your bobber closely because bluegill, like many
fish, bite very lightly in winter.

An Introduction to Fly Fishing

An Introduction to Fly Fishing

 


Anglers fly fish for the same reason some deer hunters use
longbows and arrows. By reducing automation, they make the sport more
personal, more intimate and more satisfying. And, like an archer who
makes his own arrows, a fly fishermen can create his own flies or build
his own rods. The fun in that recipe can add 10 happy years to anyone's
life.


Fly fishing is different from other kinds of fishing in a couple of
ways. Most basically, the weight of the line propels the cast, not the
weight of the bait or lure. A tiny fly is very light, but it is possible
to present it to a fish 40 feet away by using a fly line.


Most anglers come to fly fishing after a long apprenticeship in other
kinds of fishing, be it with live bait, bass lures or deep sea tackle. I
spent many hours plastered to the seat of a boat dangling minnows over
the side or sitting on a mud-slick creek bank trying to outwit catfish
before ever holding a fly rod.


When I first started fly fishing, I spent a lot of time on streams
full of greedy sunfish and small, naive bass. Casting colorful woolly
worms and little popping bugs, I waded in cool waters for hours on end
catching lots of small, feisty fish while learning to keep a fly line
airborne.

Fly Rod

Missouri anglers can start with one fly rod that will maximize the
fun in catching sunfish, small stream bass and trout. Most fly rods
today are made from graphite and, sometimes, a combination of other
materials, such as fiberglass. This is good, resilient stuff that can be
turned into a light, sweet-casting rod. The least expensive rods will
probably contain less graphite and more fiberglass.


Experienced fly anglers select a rod based on the "line weight" the
rod is rated for, the rod action and the length of the rod. Rod
"actions" are rated fully-flexing, medium, medium-fast and fast. As rods
progress from the most flexible to the fastest, they become stiffer.


Short, light fly rods suitable for sunfish use feather-weight lines,
while longer, more muscular rods used for bass fishing require heavier
lines to tease the leverage out of them. A new fly caster should look
for a rod in the medium range. It will "load" (flex the rod) with its
matched line at short to medium ranges, making casting easier at the
distances most people actually fish.


Another consideration might be how many pieces the rod comprises. If
you carry your rod in a small car, you might like the convenience of a
short tube that holds a multi-piece rod.


For your first fly rod, consider one between 8-9 feet long. A rod
designated for a 4- or 5-weight line is a good starting place. There are
two ways to dive in. One is to buy a rod, reel and fly line separately.
The other is to buy a package that includes these items, plus a
protective tube for the rod and a leader to go with the line. You can
get a good quality, entry-level kit for about $180.


Whichever you buy, I suggest you do so at a full-service fly tackle
shop where knowledgeable people can help you. You can take a step up in a
fly rod by considering a rod alone that costs in the range of $250.
This might get you a better grade of graphite and nicer trim.


The tip of a fly rod is delicate. That's why some rods now come with
lifetime guarantees. It doesn't matter if the fish of your dreams breaks
the rod or you slam it in a cabin screen door, the manufacturer repairs
or replaces it at no cost to you.

Reel

A fly reel should serve a purpose beyond merely storing line. Use it
to play fish, once they are hooked. Many fly reels have drags to reduce
the stress on the line.


A basic die-cast aluminum reel with a simple drag system costs about
$40 and will suffice for most Missouri angling. By tightening or
increasing the drag, you control how much pressure a fish has to apply
to peel line off the reel. Double the price for a basic reel and you can
get a die-cast version with a more efficient disc-drag.


If you are of the Swiss watch persuasion, you may prefer a reel
machined from aluminum bar stock. These reels are mechanical marvels,
but there is something to be said for starting out with a reel that you
don't have to worry about dropping on a gravel bar, or denting or
scratching in any other way. If someday you move up the fly reel ladder,
your initial reel can still serve as a reliable backup.

Lines

The line is what makes a fly rod work, and while fishing you will
usually be holding your rod with one hand and the line in your other.
You actually manipulate the line with your hand rather than with the
reel.


A leader, made of the same type of monofilament material used in spin
fishing lines, connects fly line to fly. Fly anglers generally use
tapered leaders 9-12 feet long. Tapered fly leaders generally cost $3 to
$4. Their packaging specifies the type of fly fishing for which they
are best suited.


Tackle makers use an effective system to size fly lines, making it
easy to match a given line to a given rod. The weight, in grains, of the
first 30 feet of a fly line designates its size. (A grain is the
smallest unit of measure in the U.S. One pound avoirdupois equals 7,000
grains.) Many anglers find a 5-weight fly line (and matched rod) ideal
for Missouri trout fishing. The first 30-feet of this line weighs 140
grains, plus or minus 6 grains.


Fly lines range in length from about 60-90 feet. Consider purchasing a
double-taper or weight-forward fly line. A double-taper fly line is fat
in the middle and tapered to a finer point at both ends. The belly of
the line provides the weight to cast, while the tapered end presents the
fly in a delicate manner, making it ideal for fishing a floating fly.
Double-taper lines also are economical. When one end becomes worn, you
can thread it the opposite way on the reel and have a fresh end to use.


A "weight-forward" fly line works well for medium- and long-range
casting. One contemporary weight-forward line has a tip of about 7 feet,
a belly of 27 feet, a rear taper of 6 feet and 50 feet of thin running
line. The weight that loads the rod and drives the line forward is up
front, while the running portion trails behind. A weight-forward line
really shoots for distance and does well in windy conditions or when
casting bulky flies.

Casting

Fly casting at moderate distances is not difficult. The good news is that you can catch fish while you are learning to do it.


The two best ways to grip a fly rod are with your thumb along the top
of the grip, or with your forefinger along the top. To learn the basic
cast, imagine you are standing next to a large clock. Straight ahead is 9
o'clock, and straight behind is 3 o'clock. The motion you will use in
just about all fly casting limits the movement of the rod between the
positions of 10 o'clock (in front) and 2 o'clock (behind).


Start with about 15 feet of fly line off of your reel in a pile at
your feet and about 6-8 feet of fly line beyond the tip of the rod. You
are going to work the line in the pile out by making a casting motion
back and forth, or false casting. Begin with the rod in front of you
with your wrist tilted down slightly. Lift with your arm, then snap your
wrist while briskly moving the rod back to 1 o'clock. At the same time,
pull downward with the hand holding the line. The pull accelerates the
speed of the airborne line.


An all-important pause takes place at this point in the cast. The
pause allows the fly line time to straighten out behind you. Then, bring
the rod "smartly" forward, snapping your wrist down a bit when the rod
hits 10 o'clock. Release the line in your hand; some of it will shoot
forward. Continue false casting until you have the amount of line that
you need airborne, and then release the line, shooting it forward for
the actual delivery to your target.


The most common errors in fly casting are failing to pause on the
back cast, and not applying power on the forward cast. If you do not
pause, your line is going to meet itself coming and going, and it may
actually snag on itself or snag your rod. If you fail to apply power on
the forward cast, the line may simply fall in a puddle at your feet
rather than delivering your fly to its target. A third problem is
waiting too long on the back cast, which can cause the line to make a
cracking sound, like a whip.

Help

If you do not have a friend who can help you improve your fly
casting, your local parks and recreation department may offer a fly
fishing class. A Trout Unlimited or Federation of Fly Fishers club in
your area can show you how to cast and might introduce you to fly tying.


There is beauty in fly fishing. In an article appearing in the
magazine of a national fly fishing club, Michael Fong wrote, "What
separates fly fishing from other forms of fishing is the joy that comes
by feeling and watching as the fly is propelled through the air as the
cast is executed."


There is something in the sight of an uncoiling fly line that I find incredibly soothing. I'll bet you will, too.

Useful Items:

• 9-foot fly fishing leader tapered to 6-pound test
• One spool each of 3- and 2-pound-test leader tippet to add to above
• One light-weight fly box
• Clipper to trim leader ends
• Hemostat to remove hooks from fish
• Small landing net
• Fishing vest (this is the fly fisher's tackle box)
• A card or book that illustrates fly fishing knots
• A small selection of flies for the type of fish you pursue

Trout Fishing Tips in Missouri

Trout Fishing

Trout Fishing

Want to catch more Missouri trout? Change your methods as the seasons and local conditions change. This page tells you how.

Basic Equipment

• A hand net to land a trout (which easily break the line when pulled out of the water)
• A stringer identified with your name and address
• Hemostats to remove swallowed hooks
• Waders or waterproof boots (remember that some parks allow wading
  while others do not. Make sure you know the regulation for your park.
  Also note the felt-soled wader ban under Related Information below.)
• A fishing vest to carry the essentials with you
• Polarized sunglasses to reduce glare and enable you to spot trout beneath the water’s surface
• Rod and reel. A basic spin-cast rod and reel will work fine, but
  other combinations can prove to be more effective. Ultra-light rods and
  spinning reels are more flexible and easier to feel a strike. Rods 6 to
  6½ feet long prove to be better for castability and make it easier to
  use a float. An ultra-light spinning reel is especially made for light
  line such as 4 pound test.

Rigging the Rod and Reel

Use a light leader, which makes the terminal end of your line less
visible to fish while allowing you to use heavier line on the reel. A
leader is a 2-foot section of 2-pound test (or lighter) line. Attach a
snap swivel to the original line on your reel. The leader will tie to
the snap swivel.


If using a hook, attach a split-shot about the size of a BB above the
snap swivel on the reel’s main line. Several different styles of hooks
can be used depending on the type of bait chosen. A treble hook (size
16-18) works well with most cheese and dough baits. A single hook sizes-
10-16 is the choice for salmon eggs. If using a lure or selected
artificial, simply tie the lure to the leader. Do not use a split shot
unless the water is high.

Knot Tying

1.  Run the line through eye of the hook, lure or swivel at least six
inches and fold to make two parallel lines. Bring the end of the line
back in a circle toward hook or lure.





2.  Make six turns with tag end around the double line and through
the circle. Hold double line at point where it passes through eye and
pull tag end to snug up turns.





3.  Now pull standing line to slide knot up against eye.





4.  Continue pulling until knot is tight. Trim tag end flush with
closest coil of knot. This is known as a Uni-knot and will not slip.

Flies lures and baits

The following classes of lures are authorized for use, except where
restricted. Montauk, Roaring River and Bennett Spring have divisions in
their spring branch called “zones.” Zones have specific restrictions on
flies, lures and baits. Each trout park will have a regulation pamphlet.
Rules and zones vary between parks. Refer to the pamphlet for zones,
maps and specific rules. Maramec Spring has no zone restrictions on
flies, lures and baits as defined in A, B, C, and D.


(A) Natural and scented baits—A natural fish food such as bait fish,
crayfish, frogs permitted as bait, grubs, insects, larvae, worms, salmon
eggs, cheese, corn and other food substances not containing any
ingredient to stupefy, injure or kill fish. Does not include flies or
artificial lures. Includes dough bait, putty or paste-type bait, any
substance designed to attract fish by taste or smell and any fly, lure
or bait containing or used with such substances.


(B) Soft plastic bait (unscented)—Synthetic eggs, synthetic worms, synthetic grubs and soft plastic lures.


(C) Artificial Lure—A lure constructed of any material excluding soft
plastic bait and natural and scented bait defined in (A) or (B) above.


(D) Fly—An artificial lure constructed on a single-point hook, using
any material except soft plastic bait and natural and scented bait as
defined in (A) or (B) above, that is tied, glued or otherwise
permanently attached.

Baits

Trout rely mainly on their sense of smell as well as sight to detect
food sources. For this reason, there is a variety of colored scented
baits available to catch trout. Common commercial brand brands include
Berkeley’s Power Bait and Zeke's. They both come in an assortment of
colors and utilize scent attractants. Velveeta cheese and bread are also
excellent choices. Hatchery-raised trout have fed on small brown
pellets for most of their lives. For this reason, locally made
dough-baits can prove exceptional for catching trout. This type of bait
is usually found in the park store.

Methods

Drift Fishing

This method can prove to be very effective in any condition. You can
cover a large area and present your bait to a number of trout. Start by
using a split shot approximately 12 to 24 inches from your hook. Use a
leader if fishing is slow. Adjust to water conditions accordingly
(larger split shot and longer leader for deeper fast moving water). Use a
small treble or salmon hook. If you use a treble hook , mold your bait
(Berkley’s Power Bait, Velveeta cheese, Zeke’s cheese, bread or locally
made dough bait) on the hook so that it is covered entirely. Use just
enough bait to conceal hook and no more. If you use a salmon hook simply
hook the salmon egg through the middle. Cast upstream from the fish (if
visible) and keep pace with your bait by slowly reeling in the slack
line as the current


pushes it downstream. Trout may bite lightly so be ready. Setting the
hook requires a medium pull back on the rod. A hard hook set on trout
will cause you to catch less fish. Trout can be choosy and may like one
color on a given day but not the next. Try different colors if one is
not working for you. Another helpful hint is to find out what other
fisherman are using and this may save you some time. Flies and lures may
also be used for this method.

Float Fishing

This method is similar to drift fishing with the exception of using a
floater (bobber). A small slender floater is recommended. Adjust your
floater accordingly with the depth of the trout. Set the hook when the
floater makes a sudden movement.

Fishing with Jigs

There are several different artificial lures out there; however,
marabou jigs have proven themselves year after year. They come in a
variety of sizes (1/16-ounce to 1/256th of an ounce) and colors.
Effective colors are yellow, olive, white, black, brown or a combination
of colors. You can drift fish your marabou with or without a float. No
split shot is required unless it can improve your presentation in
swift/deep water or when using light jigs. Heavier jigs may require
trimming the tail to about half or more. Experiment with different
techniques such as a slow vibration (“jigging”) retrieve. Immediately
set the hook when you feel a strike. Avoid setting the hook on sight
alone and rely more on feel. Like with bait, experiment with different
colors.

Tight lining

Bottom fishing may be the easiest method, yet it can be very
effective. Use your polarized glasses to spot trout in slow moving water
and prepare for a relatively carefree fishing experience. Rigging
consists of using the desired hook with bait and crimping the
appropriate split shot 12 to 24 inches above the hook. Cast your line
upstream from the fish and let the bait settle to the bottom. Reel up
your slack line and sit back and relax while you wait for a strike.
Watch your pole closely for the slightest movement because trout may
bite lightly. After a few minutes reel your line in and check your bait.
Freshly bait your hook and cast in a different spot. Avoid using this
method in high water.

Tips For Success

Murky Water

You can use heavier line and a heavier split shot during murky water
conditions. The murky water will help conceal heavier line. A heavier
split shot or lure is often required because the water level will tend
to be higher and swifter when murky.

Clear Water

Use clear nylon sewing machine thread or two pound test line for
leader line on a clear sunny day. Trout will often see larger line and
shy away under clear water conditions. Use your polarized glasses to
locate fish. Trout generally tend to school up in deep holes when the
spring level is low. For more detailed information about your fishing
trip such as stream conditions, directions, or any question, please
contact the hatchery office located in each park.

Top 5 Trout Baits

Top 5 Best Trout Baits

I figured it was only fitting that I list off my favorite trout baits. After all, sometimes there is nothing better than just relaxing on the bank, and letting the bait do all the work for you. Also, bait fishing is perfect when taking kids along.

Pautzke Salmon Eggs

Balls O' Fire Premium Salmon Egg Bait, 1-Ounce

 

5. Pautzke Salmon Eggs

This one has been around forever. The effectiveness of a salmon egg is dependent on two things, the quality of the egg, and the egg cure. Pautzke got both of these right with their eggs. They have been around for over 70 years, so history speaks for itself here, with millions of jars sold since that time.
The good:
Shiny texture and perfect size make it a visually attractive bait for fish
Inexpensive
Keep fairly well, they last me a couple seasons without going bad.
Not particularly messy- but they turn your fingers red.
Pleasant smell
The not so good
Sinking (not necessarily bad, just depends on the bait rig)
Weaker scent trail than some other baits
How to fish them
Since they are a sinking bait, Pautzke eggs can either be fished under a bobber or float, suspended off the bottom in tandem with a floating bait, drifted along the bottom in current, or added to trolled lures to entice more strikes.
At Meramec Springs I like to drift them below the rapids. Sometimes they like one egg on an egg hook and sometimes three of them on a treble.

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4. Scented Marshmallows

 Atlas-Mikes are a favorite brand of many fisherman.
The good
Inexpensive
Very Floaty (unless they start to go stale)
Variety of scents and colors, with the option of glitter
Relatively unmessy
The not so good
Don't keep as well as some other baits (be sure to keep the jar closed, and keep water out)
How to fish
Since this is a floating bait, rig as usual using an egg sinker or split shot, and suspend off the bottom. Additional sinking baits, a salmon egg for example, can be added to the rig to create an attention grabbing trout buffet.

3. Nightcrawlers

The nightcrawler is the oldest bait on my list, and arguably one of the oldest baits of all times. They catch fish in saltwater, fresh water, rivers, lakes, anywhere really. I've caught bass, flounder, dog fish, perch, crappy, bluegill, and of course trout, as well as many other species of fish, all on nightcrawlers.
The good
Catch a variety of fish in addition to trout, you never know what you might pull up
Available most places
You can dig, or even farm your own
Relatively inexpensive
Best "action" of any of the baits listed here
The not so good
Some may object to the use of live bait
Difficult to thread on the hook
Sinking
Slimy and messy
Do not keep well (keep cool, damp and dark for best life, but still only a few weeks at tops)
Minimal scent trail
How to fish
Just like salmon eggs. Suspend from a bobber or float, float off the bottom with a marshmallow or other floating bait, drift in the current, or add to a trolled or cast lure. For most trout, a whole nightcrawler is overkill, half or third of a worm will do just fine.

 

2. Berkley Power Eggs

Berkley Power Eggs are a fairly recent addition to the trout fisherman's arsenal. They are the less messy and longer lasting cousin of dough style baits. The traditional egg style are likely the most popular, however the same formula is available in numerous other shapes, with one of my personal favorites being the Honey Worm.
The good
Low mess
A wide variety of colors, styles, scents, and glitter patterns
Stay on the hook very well
Very long shelf life
Good scent dispersion
The not so good
Pricey
About the furthest thing from a natural bait as you can get
How to fish
The egg style of bait is a floating formula, so fish similarly to the marshmallow baits. Either use one of multiple eggs per hook. When using some of their other molded baits, the Honey Worms for example, be aware that they naturally sink, so keep this in mind when tying your rigs.

1. Berkley Powerbait Dough Bait

I know I'll probably get a little flack from a couple fisherman for picking an artificial bait for the number one spot, but my rationale is simple: Berkley Powerbait has put the most fish in my boat.
The good
Mold-able, easy to cover whole hook while still keeping it bite size
Wide variety of colors, scents, and added glitters
Floats
Relatively long shelf life (just keep the lids tight)
Absorb and hold additional scents well
The not so good
Messy
Somewhat off-putting smell
Expensive
Doesn't stay on the hook as well as others (mostly only a problem with old bait)
How to fish
Form a ball of the dough just large enough to cover the hook completely. Fish as you would the other floating bait like Power Eggs or Marshmallows.