Trout Tips from Spring Creek Treasure -Temperature and Season

Trout Tips from Spring Creek Treasure

Water temperature dictates when trout will feed and it should dictate when the angler will fish.

Water has its greatest density at 38 to 39 degrees and trout seldom hit when the water temperature is below 40 degrees.

Frequently taking the water temperature tells you if it's rising or falling one degree.  Thus I take the water temperature at least once every hour.  If the temperature is slowly rising up to 63 degrees you will want to keep fishing.  However, if the water temperature drops one degree the trout usually quit feeding.  As you read further in the book you will understand the importance of this information.

Having kept thirty-four years of water temperature data I have concluded there are three significant water temperatures at which trout seem to feed best.  And, without fail the trout stream temperature will frequently range between those three significant temperatures during March, in Southwestern Wisconsin.  I have identified the three significant feeding periods as the 40 degree rise, the 45 degree rise, and the 49 degree rise.  What was most difficult was identifying why the feeding usually picked up at 40, 45, and 49 degrees.  It took more research and the application of science to figure that out.

108.  At 67 degrees trout quit feeding, therefore, you should move upstream to cooler water or quit fishing.

129.  The grasshopper is an excellent free bait for August and September fishing.  The fly angler should try a weighted Joe's Hopper.   

134.  During the last two months of the season fish the upper third of the trout stream.

135.  Use a nymph fly tied by John Bethke, the Pink Squirrel, in spring creeks.

141.  After the first leaves turn in late August brown trout become territorial and they will smash your lure even when not hungry.

143.  In late August the time of day to fish can change from early to late morning.  And in September it can change to the middle of the day.  

46.  The sun is highest in the sky from April 21 to August 21, and that is when you should fish early morning or when the sky is overcast.

48.  When approaching a pool with cover, where a big trout might be located, wade quietly like a deer on the shallow side of the stream.

49.  Fish the shadow areas of the stream when the sun hits the water.

57.  When the water temperature rises above 63 degrees trout start to shut down; and at 67 degrees they are usually dormant and refuse to hit an artificial.

62.  As the cold front approaches, when clouds appear and the air temperature is stable or rising, you can have excellent fishing.  

An Introduction to Fly Fishing

An Introduction to Fly Fishing

 


Anglers fly fish for the same reason some deer hunters use
longbows and arrows. By reducing automation, they make the sport more
personal, more intimate and more satisfying. And, like an archer who
makes his own arrows, a fly fishermen can create his own flies or build
his own rods. The fun in that recipe can add 10 happy years to anyone's
life.


Fly fishing is different from other kinds of fishing in a couple of
ways. Most basically, the weight of the line propels the cast, not the
weight of the bait or lure. A tiny fly is very light, but it is possible
to present it to a fish 40 feet away by using a fly line.


Most anglers come to fly fishing after a long apprenticeship in other
kinds of fishing, be it with live bait, bass lures or deep sea tackle. I
spent many hours plastered to the seat of a boat dangling minnows over
the side or sitting on a mud-slick creek bank trying to outwit catfish
before ever holding a fly rod.


When I first started fly fishing, I spent a lot of time on streams
full of greedy sunfish and small, naive bass. Casting colorful woolly
worms and little popping bugs, I waded in cool waters for hours on end
catching lots of small, feisty fish while learning to keep a fly line
airborne.

Fly Rod

Missouri anglers can start with one fly rod that will maximize the
fun in catching sunfish, small stream bass and trout. Most fly rods
today are made from graphite and, sometimes, a combination of other
materials, such as fiberglass. This is good, resilient stuff that can be
turned into a light, sweet-casting rod. The least expensive rods will
probably contain less graphite and more fiberglass.


Experienced fly anglers select a rod based on the "line weight" the
rod is rated for, the rod action and the length of the rod. Rod
"actions" are rated fully-flexing, medium, medium-fast and fast. As rods
progress from the most flexible to the fastest, they become stiffer.


Short, light fly rods suitable for sunfish use feather-weight lines,
while longer, more muscular rods used for bass fishing require heavier
lines to tease the leverage out of them. A new fly caster should look
for a rod in the medium range. It will "load" (flex the rod) with its
matched line at short to medium ranges, making casting easier at the
distances most people actually fish.


Another consideration might be how many pieces the rod comprises. If
you carry your rod in a small car, you might like the convenience of a
short tube that holds a multi-piece rod.


For your first fly rod, consider one between 8-9 feet long. A rod
designated for a 4- or 5-weight line is a good starting place. There are
two ways to dive in. One is to buy a rod, reel and fly line separately.
The other is to buy a package that includes these items, plus a
protective tube for the rod and a leader to go with the line. You can
get a good quality, entry-level kit for about $180.


Whichever you buy, I suggest you do so at a full-service fly tackle
shop where knowledgeable people can help you. You can take a step up in a
fly rod by considering a rod alone that costs in the range of $250.
This might get you a better grade of graphite and nicer trim.


The tip of a fly rod is delicate. That's why some rods now come with
lifetime guarantees. It doesn't matter if the fish of your dreams breaks
the rod or you slam it in a cabin screen door, the manufacturer repairs
or replaces it at no cost to you.

Reel

A fly reel should serve a purpose beyond merely storing line. Use it
to play fish, once they are hooked. Many fly reels have drags to reduce
the stress on the line.


A basic die-cast aluminum reel with a simple drag system costs about
$40 and will suffice for most Missouri angling. By tightening or
increasing the drag, you control how much pressure a fish has to apply
to peel line off the reel. Double the price for a basic reel and you can
get a die-cast version with a more efficient disc-drag.


If you are of the Swiss watch persuasion, you may prefer a reel
machined from aluminum bar stock. These reels are mechanical marvels,
but there is something to be said for starting out with a reel that you
don't have to worry about dropping on a gravel bar, or denting or
scratching in any other way. If someday you move up the fly reel ladder,
your initial reel can still serve as a reliable backup.

Lines

The line is what makes a fly rod work, and while fishing you will
usually be holding your rod with one hand and the line in your other.
You actually manipulate the line with your hand rather than with the
reel.


A leader, made of the same type of monofilament material used in spin
fishing lines, connects fly line to fly. Fly anglers generally use
tapered leaders 9-12 feet long. Tapered fly leaders generally cost $3 to
$4. Their packaging specifies the type of fly fishing for which they
are best suited.


Tackle makers use an effective system to size fly lines, making it
easy to match a given line to a given rod. The weight, in grains, of the
first 30 feet of a fly line designates its size. (A grain is the
smallest unit of measure in the U.S. One pound avoirdupois equals 7,000
grains.) Many anglers find a 5-weight fly line (and matched rod) ideal
for Missouri trout fishing. The first 30-feet of this line weighs 140
grains, plus or minus 6 grains.


Fly lines range in length from about 60-90 feet. Consider purchasing a
double-taper or weight-forward fly line. A double-taper fly line is fat
in the middle and tapered to a finer point at both ends. The belly of
the line provides the weight to cast, while the tapered end presents the
fly in a delicate manner, making it ideal for fishing a floating fly.
Double-taper lines also are economical. When one end becomes worn, you
can thread it the opposite way on the reel and have a fresh end to use.


A "weight-forward" fly line works well for medium- and long-range
casting. One contemporary weight-forward line has a tip of about 7 feet,
a belly of 27 feet, a rear taper of 6 feet and 50 feet of thin running
line. The weight that loads the rod and drives the line forward is up
front, while the running portion trails behind. A weight-forward line
really shoots for distance and does well in windy conditions or when
casting bulky flies.

Casting

Fly casting at moderate distances is not difficult. The good news is that you can catch fish while you are learning to do it.


The two best ways to grip a fly rod are with your thumb along the top
of the grip, or with your forefinger along the top. To learn the basic
cast, imagine you are standing next to a large clock. Straight ahead is 9
o'clock, and straight behind is 3 o'clock. The motion you will use in
just about all fly casting limits the movement of the rod between the
positions of 10 o'clock (in front) and 2 o'clock (behind).


Start with about 15 feet of fly line off of your reel in a pile at
your feet and about 6-8 feet of fly line beyond the tip of the rod. You
are going to work the line in the pile out by making a casting motion
back and forth, or false casting. Begin with the rod in front of you
with your wrist tilted down slightly. Lift with your arm, then snap your
wrist while briskly moving the rod back to 1 o'clock. At the same time,
pull downward with the hand holding the line. The pull accelerates the
speed of the airborne line.


An all-important pause takes place at this point in the cast. The
pause allows the fly line time to straighten out behind you. Then, bring
the rod "smartly" forward, snapping your wrist down a bit when the rod
hits 10 o'clock. Release the line in your hand; some of it will shoot
forward. Continue false casting until you have the amount of line that
you need airborne, and then release the line, shooting it forward for
the actual delivery to your target.


The most common errors in fly casting are failing to pause on the
back cast, and not applying power on the forward cast. If you do not
pause, your line is going to meet itself coming and going, and it may
actually snag on itself or snag your rod. If you fail to apply power on
the forward cast, the line may simply fall in a puddle at your feet
rather than delivering your fly to its target. A third problem is
waiting too long on the back cast, which can cause the line to make a
cracking sound, like a whip.

Help

If you do not have a friend who can help you improve your fly
casting, your local parks and recreation department may offer a fly
fishing class. A Trout Unlimited or Federation of Fly Fishers club in
your area can show you how to cast and might introduce you to fly tying.


There is beauty in fly fishing. In an article appearing in the
magazine of a national fly fishing club, Michael Fong wrote, "What
separates fly fishing from other forms of fishing is the joy that comes
by feeling and watching as the fly is propelled through the air as the
cast is executed."


There is something in the sight of an uncoiling fly line that I find incredibly soothing. I'll bet you will, too.

Useful Items:

• 9-foot fly fishing leader tapered to 6-pound test
• One spool each of 3- and 2-pound-test leader tippet to add to above
• One light-weight fly box
• Clipper to trim leader ends
• Hemostat to remove hooks from fish
• Small landing net
• Fishing vest (this is the fly fisher's tackle box)
• A card or book that illustrates fly fishing knots
• A small selection of flies for the type of fish you pursue

Trout Fishing Tips in Missouri

Trout Fishing

Trout Fishing

Want to catch more Missouri trout? Change your methods as the seasons and local conditions change. This page tells you how.

Basic Equipment

• A hand net to land a trout (which easily break the line when pulled out of the water)
• A stringer identified with your name and address
• Hemostats to remove swallowed hooks
• Waders or waterproof boots (remember that some parks allow wading
  while others do not. Make sure you know the regulation for your park.
  Also note the felt-soled wader ban under Related Information below.)
• A fishing vest to carry the essentials with you
• Polarized sunglasses to reduce glare and enable you to spot trout beneath the water’s surface
• Rod and reel. A basic spin-cast rod and reel will work fine, but
  other combinations can prove to be more effective. Ultra-light rods and
  spinning reels are more flexible and easier to feel a strike. Rods 6 to
  6½ feet long prove to be better for castability and make it easier to
  use a float. An ultra-light spinning reel is especially made for light
  line such as 4 pound test.

Rigging the Rod and Reel

Use a light leader, which makes the terminal end of your line less
visible to fish while allowing you to use heavier line on the reel. A
leader is a 2-foot section of 2-pound test (or lighter) line. Attach a
snap swivel to the original line on your reel. The leader will tie to
the snap swivel.


If using a hook, attach a split-shot about the size of a BB above the
snap swivel on the reel’s main line. Several different styles of hooks
can be used depending on the type of bait chosen. A treble hook (size
16-18) works well with most cheese and dough baits. A single hook sizes-
10-16 is the choice for salmon eggs. If using a lure or selected
artificial, simply tie the lure to the leader. Do not use a split shot
unless the water is high.

Knot Tying

1.  Run the line through eye of the hook, lure or swivel at least six
inches and fold to make two parallel lines. Bring the end of the line
back in a circle toward hook or lure.





2.  Make six turns with tag end around the double line and through
the circle. Hold double line at point where it passes through eye and
pull tag end to snug up turns.





3.  Now pull standing line to slide knot up against eye.





4.  Continue pulling until knot is tight. Trim tag end flush with
closest coil of knot. This is known as a Uni-knot and will not slip.

Flies lures and baits

The following classes of lures are authorized for use, except where
restricted. Montauk, Roaring River and Bennett Spring have divisions in
their spring branch called “zones.” Zones have specific restrictions on
flies, lures and baits. Each trout park will have a regulation pamphlet.
Rules and zones vary between parks. Refer to the pamphlet for zones,
maps and specific rules. Maramec Spring has no zone restrictions on
flies, lures and baits as defined in A, B, C, and D.


(A) Natural and scented baits—A natural fish food such as bait fish,
crayfish, frogs permitted as bait, grubs, insects, larvae, worms, salmon
eggs, cheese, corn and other food substances not containing any
ingredient to stupefy, injure or kill fish. Does not include flies or
artificial lures. Includes dough bait, putty or paste-type bait, any
substance designed to attract fish by taste or smell and any fly, lure
or bait containing or used with such substances.


(B) Soft plastic bait (unscented)—Synthetic eggs, synthetic worms, synthetic grubs and soft plastic lures.


(C) Artificial Lure—A lure constructed of any material excluding soft
plastic bait and natural and scented bait defined in (A) or (B) above.


(D) Fly—An artificial lure constructed on a single-point hook, using
any material except soft plastic bait and natural and scented bait as
defined in (A) or (B) above, that is tied, glued or otherwise
permanently attached.

Baits

Trout rely mainly on their sense of smell as well as sight to detect
food sources. For this reason, there is a variety of colored scented
baits available to catch trout. Common commercial brand brands include
Berkeley’s Power Bait and Zeke's. They both come in an assortment of
colors and utilize scent attractants. Velveeta cheese and bread are also
excellent choices. Hatchery-raised trout have fed on small brown
pellets for most of their lives. For this reason, locally made
dough-baits can prove exceptional for catching trout. This type of bait
is usually found in the park store.

Methods

Drift Fishing

This method can prove to be very effective in any condition. You can
cover a large area and present your bait to a number of trout. Start by
using a split shot approximately 12 to 24 inches from your hook. Use a
leader if fishing is slow. Adjust to water conditions accordingly
(larger split shot and longer leader for deeper fast moving water). Use a
small treble or salmon hook. If you use a treble hook , mold your bait
(Berkley’s Power Bait, Velveeta cheese, Zeke’s cheese, bread or locally
made dough bait) on the hook so that it is covered entirely. Use just
enough bait to conceal hook and no more. If you use a salmon hook simply
hook the salmon egg through the middle. Cast upstream from the fish (if
visible) and keep pace with your bait by slowly reeling in the slack
line as the current


pushes it downstream. Trout may bite lightly so be ready. Setting the
hook requires a medium pull back on the rod. A hard hook set on trout
will cause you to catch less fish. Trout can be choosy and may like one
color on a given day but not the next. Try different colors if one is
not working for you. Another helpful hint is to find out what other
fisherman are using and this may save you some time. Flies and lures may
also be used for this method.

Float Fishing

This method is similar to drift fishing with the exception of using a
floater (bobber). A small slender floater is recommended. Adjust your
floater accordingly with the depth of the trout. Set the hook when the
floater makes a sudden movement.

Fishing with Jigs

There are several different artificial lures out there; however,
marabou jigs have proven themselves year after year. They come in a
variety of sizes (1/16-ounce to 1/256th of an ounce) and colors.
Effective colors are yellow, olive, white, black, brown or a combination
of colors. You can drift fish your marabou with or without a float. No
split shot is required unless it can improve your presentation in
swift/deep water or when using light jigs. Heavier jigs may require
trimming the tail to about half or more. Experiment with different
techniques such as a slow vibration (“jigging”) retrieve. Immediately
set the hook when you feel a strike. Avoid setting the hook on sight
alone and rely more on feel. Like with bait, experiment with different
colors.

Tight lining

Bottom fishing may be the easiest method, yet it can be very
effective. Use your polarized glasses to spot trout in slow moving water
and prepare for a relatively carefree fishing experience. Rigging
consists of using the desired hook with bait and crimping the
appropriate split shot 12 to 24 inches above the hook. Cast your line
upstream from the fish and let the bait settle to the bottom. Reel up
your slack line and sit back and relax while you wait for a strike.
Watch your pole closely for the slightest movement because trout may
bite lightly. After a few minutes reel your line in and check your bait.
Freshly bait your hook and cast in a different spot. Avoid using this
method in high water.

Tips For Success

Murky Water

You can use heavier line and a heavier split shot during murky water
conditions. The murky water will help conceal heavier line. A heavier
split shot or lure is often required because the water level will tend
to be higher and swifter when murky.

Clear Water

Use clear nylon sewing machine thread or two pound test line for
leader line on a clear sunny day. Trout will often see larger line and
shy away under clear water conditions. Use your polarized glasses to
locate fish. Trout generally tend to school up in deep holes when the
spring level is low. For more detailed information about your fishing
trip such as stream conditions, directions, or any question, please
contact the hatchery office located in each park.

Top 5 Trout Baits

Top 5 Best Trout Baits

I figured it was only fitting that I list off my favorite trout baits. After all, sometimes there is nothing better than just relaxing on the bank, and letting the bait do all the work for you. Also, bait fishing is perfect when taking kids along.

Pautzke Salmon Eggs

Balls O' Fire Premium Salmon Egg Bait, 1-Ounce

 

5. Pautzke Salmon Eggs

This one has been around forever. The effectiveness of a salmon egg is dependent on two things, the quality of the egg, and the egg cure. Pautzke got both of these right with their eggs. They have been around for over 70 years, so history speaks for itself here, with millions of jars sold since that time.
The good:
Shiny texture and perfect size make it a visually attractive bait for fish
Inexpensive
Keep fairly well, they last me a couple seasons without going bad.
Not particularly messy- but they turn your fingers red.
Pleasant smell
The not so good
Sinking (not necessarily bad, just depends on the bait rig)
Weaker scent trail than some other baits
How to fish them
Since they are a sinking bait, Pautzke eggs can either be fished under a bobber or float, suspended off the bottom in tandem with a floating bait, drifted along the bottom in current, or added to trolled lures to entice more strikes.
At Meramec Springs I like to drift them below the rapids. Sometimes they like one egg on an egg hook and sometimes three of them on a treble.

BUY NOW from http://blueribbonlures.com/testsite/

4. Scented Marshmallows

 Atlas-Mikes are a favorite brand of many fisherman.
The good
Inexpensive
Very Floaty (unless they start to go stale)
Variety of scents and colors, with the option of glitter
Relatively unmessy
The not so good
Don't keep as well as some other baits (be sure to keep the jar closed, and keep water out)
How to fish
Since this is a floating bait, rig as usual using an egg sinker or split shot, and suspend off the bottom. Additional sinking baits, a salmon egg for example, can be added to the rig to create an attention grabbing trout buffet.

3. Nightcrawlers

The nightcrawler is the oldest bait on my list, and arguably one of the oldest baits of all times. They catch fish in saltwater, fresh water, rivers, lakes, anywhere really. I've caught bass, flounder, dog fish, perch, crappy, bluegill, and of course trout, as well as many other species of fish, all on nightcrawlers.
The good
Catch a variety of fish in addition to trout, you never know what you might pull up
Available most places
You can dig, or even farm your own
Relatively inexpensive
Best "action" of any of the baits listed here
The not so good
Some may object to the use of live bait
Difficult to thread on the hook
Sinking
Slimy and messy
Do not keep well (keep cool, damp and dark for best life, but still only a few weeks at tops)
Minimal scent trail
How to fish
Just like salmon eggs. Suspend from a bobber or float, float off the bottom with a marshmallow or other floating bait, drift in the current, or add to a trolled or cast lure. For most trout, a whole nightcrawler is overkill, half or third of a worm will do just fine.

 

2. Berkley Power Eggs

Berkley Power Eggs are a fairly recent addition to the trout fisherman's arsenal. They are the less messy and longer lasting cousin of dough style baits. The traditional egg style are likely the most popular, however the same formula is available in numerous other shapes, with one of my personal favorites being the Honey Worm.
The good
Low mess
A wide variety of colors, styles, scents, and glitter patterns
Stay on the hook very well
Very long shelf life
Good scent dispersion
The not so good
Pricey
About the furthest thing from a natural bait as you can get
How to fish
The egg style of bait is a floating formula, so fish similarly to the marshmallow baits. Either use one of multiple eggs per hook. When using some of their other molded baits, the Honey Worms for example, be aware that they naturally sink, so keep this in mind when tying your rigs.

1. Berkley Powerbait Dough Bait

I know I'll probably get a little flack from a couple fisherman for picking an artificial bait for the number one spot, but my rationale is simple: Berkley Powerbait has put the most fish in my boat.
The good
Mold-able, easy to cover whole hook while still keeping it bite size
Wide variety of colors, scents, and added glitters
Floats
Relatively long shelf life (just keep the lids tight)
Absorb and hold additional scents well
The not so good
Messy
Somewhat off-putting smell
Expensive
Doesn't stay on the hook as well as others (mostly only a problem with old bait)
How to fish
Form a ball of the dough just large enough to cover the hook completely. Fish as you would the other floating bait like Power Eggs or Marshmallows.

Tennessee's first unassisted trout

My four year old caught his first unassisted trout in Eureka, MO.  Very fun.

Power Bait Trout RIgs

PowerBait Trout Dough Bait

PowerBait Trout Dough Bait comes in a variety of colors and scents. Depending on your area, one color and/or scent may be preferred over others.
As a general rule, we use two in particular - Glitter Trout Dough Bait Rainbow with Garlic Scent and Glitter Trout Dough Bait Rainbow with Extra Scent.
We have discovered the extra scent and the different colors along with the glitter tend to trigger more strikes in the ponds we fish.
That said, we also bring a container of pink PowerBait Trout Dough Bait as a back up; pink is one color missing in the Rainbow offering.
To fish the PowerBait Trout Dough Bait, the Team uses four fishing rigs which are described in the sections below.
Do check them out and let us know if they work for you this Season!

PowerBait - Trout Dough Bait

List Price: $5.99

Trout Fishing Rig Components

Components for the Trout Fishing Rigs

The photo in the sidebar shows the components used for the four Trout Fishing Rigs used by the Field Team.
In addition, the following is a list of the components for your reference:

1. Three 1/8oz Bullet Weights
2. One 3/0 Split Shot
3. One #6 Split Shot
4. Three Beads
5. Two Small Barrel Swivels (or Snap Swivels)
6. Four Treble Hooks (size 14-20)

These are the basic components used to make the four Trout Fishing Rigs. However, the weight of the Bullet Weights and the size and/or number of Split Shot used can be modified based on the existing conditions such as wind, current flow, and casting distance.

4lbs Fishing Line

Fishing Line

For ease of illustration, we are using a yellow Dacron line to make the Trout Fishing Rigs described in this article.
When fishing, we use 4-6 lbs test monofilament fishing line. More often, the brand is Stren or Trilene; whatever happens to be on sale at our local sporting goods store.

Trout Fishing Rig #1 Components

Threading the Bead

Completed Bead

Trout Fishing Rig #1

Trout Fishing Rig #1

The first of the four Trout Fishing Rigs described in this article uses a Bullet Weight, a Bead, and a Hook.
To make this rig, begin by threading the fishing line through the Bullet Weight, pointed end toward your reel.
Next, thread the fishing line through the Bead from one end.
And then, double the fishing line back, and thread it through the Bead a second time.
The fishing line should pass through the same end when threaded through the Bead the first time.

^{When the fishing line is tightened, the Bead should look like the picture in the sidebar - "Completed Bead".
Also, allow for 12-18 inches of fishing line on the tag end. If you need to increase the tag end, loosen the line through the bead and adjust to the desired length.}

Finally, using an improved clinch knot, tie the hook to the tag end. Refer to the picture in the sidebar - "Trout Fishing Rig #1" to see the completed rig.
This is a quick rig to tie and allows for adjusting the tag end (leader) by loosening the loop through the Bead.
When used with an Ultralight Fishing Rod, it casts easily and makes for long cast when needed.
It also is sensitive to light strikes as the line slips through the weight minimizing drag, which will increase hook ups with finicky Trout.
The drawback... it is limited in strength because of the loop created by the Bead. It should only be used where small Rainbow Trout are stocked (9-13 inch Trout).
If larger Rainbow Trout are in the area, better to use Trout Fishing Rig #2 or Trout Fishing Rig #3.

Trout Fishing Rig #2 Components

Trout Fishing Rig #2

Trout Fishing Rig #2

The second Trout Fishing Rig uses a Bullet Weight, Bead, a small Swivel, and a Hook.
To make this rig, begin by threading the fishing line through the Bullet Weight, pointed end toward your reel.
Next, thread the fishing line through the Bead, and then, using an improved clinch knot, tie the small Swivel to the fishing line.
Then, measure 12-18 inches of fishing line to make a leader; and then, cut and tie it to the other end of the small Swivel.
Finally, tie the tag end of the leader to the Hook. Refer to the picture in the sidebar - "Trout Fishing Rig #2" to see the completed rig.
This rig takes a little longer to tie compared to Trout Fishing Rig #1 and does not readily allow for ease of adjusting the leader's length. However, it will handle larger Rainbow Trout!
It is sensitive to light strikes as the line slips through the weight minimizing drag like in Trout Fishing Rig #1.
It's drawback is when fished in rivers with a strong current the rig may slip and result in missed hook sets. When this happens, use Trout Fishing Rig #3.

Trout Fishing Rig #3 Components

Trout Fishing Rig #3

Trout Fishing Rig #3

The third Trout Fishing Rig uses a small #6 Split Shot, a Bullet Weight, a Bead, a small Swivel, and a Hook.
To make this rig, follow the same steps as Trout Fishing Rig #2.
Then, push the Bullet Weight and Bead against the small Swivel.
Finally, attach the small #6 Split Shot about two inches from the Bullet Weight. Refer to the picture in the sidebar - "Trout Fishing Rig #3" to see the completed rig.
By adding the small #6 Split Shot, the rig will handle stronger currents and lessen the likelihood of a slack line caused by the current.

Trout Fishing Rig #4 Components

Trout Fishing Rig #4

Trout Fishing Rig #4

The fourth Trout Fishing Rig is the simplest to setup, using a 3/0 Split Shot and a Hook.
To make this rig, attach the hook to the fishing line with an improved clinch knot.
And then, measure 12-18 inches from the hook and attach the 3/0 Split Shot.
That's it... refer to the picture in the sidebar - "Trout Fishing Rig #4" to see the completed rig.
This rig is the least sensitive of all the rigs described because the fishing line does not slip through the weight and the fish will feel drag against the weight.
However, it will handle larger Rainbow Trout. It uses a minimum of components (a hook and a split shot). More weight can be added as conditions require. And, it is quick to setup especially with cold fingers in freezing weather!

Baiting Trout

Offering tasty baits, whether manmade or natural, is the way to lure hungry trout released from the hatchery.

Fly-fishing and trout go together like hotdogs and baseball, yet during the early season, conditions may not be favorable for any form of artificial offering. Granted, it’s a lot of fun watching a wily trout rise beneath a dry fly, and the anticipation of awaiting the strike is almost beyond description. Conversely, it is equally frustrating to watch a trophy trout cruise within range of a perfectly presented nymph then completely ignore your offering.
There’s one thing, however, that’s rarely ignored: bait. Most trout, especially those fresh from the hatchery, rarely forego the opportunity to dine on an easy meal.
SALMON EGGS
Salmon eggs are a highly productive trout bait, especially on opening day. They’re the right size and shape, and in many instances, they are saturated with flavored oils for added enticement. Cheese-flavored eggs seem to be the most popular.
Salmon eggs come in a variety of colors. While red and yellow seem to top the list with fishermen, many anglers have switched to the new fluorescent colors, claiming that they’re more productive during the season’s first few days. And, for some unexplained reason, trout tend to be more attracted to various shades of red over many of the brighter colors.
The popularity of salmon eggs has always been quite high among early-season trout anglers, so high that hook manufacturers went to the trouble to design hooks specifically for use with salmon eggs. They are available in various sizes ranging from No. 8 to No. 14. These hooks have extremely short shanks and come in both turned-up and turned-down eye styles. When properly rigged, the hook can easily be concealed entirely within a single salmon egg. Consequently, the only thing the rainbow, brookie or brown actually sees, even in clear water, is the egg itself.

CHEESE
What do you do when your local tackle shop is sold out of salmon eggs? Make a quick stop at the corner convenience store. Most are open 24 hours a day, and they all sell cheese.
Most soft cheese products make great trout baits, particularly when you’re targeting trout that are fresh from the hatchery. Cheese oils rapidly disperse with the currents, often luring hungry trout from incredible distances. Additionally, soft cheese can readily be formed around a salmon egg hook and molded into pellet-shaped morsels. When all other forms of bait fail, a small glob of cheese may save the day.
MARSHMALLOWS
The first person to use marshmallows for bait was either very creative or totally frustrated. Whatever the case may have been, it worked. Yes, those tiny cocktail marshmallows have saved the day for many trout anglers, especially during the season’s first few days. While marshmallows don’t resemble any form of trout food, hatchery or natural, they do emit sufficient odor to attract various species of fish. In fact, some anglers complain that they are too effective.
Marshmallows can be cut or torn into smaller pieces, then easily formed to cover a salmon egg hook. However, because they have a relatively high air content, marshmallows have the tendency to float. Therefore, a small piece of split shot, preferably BB size must be added to the line about 12 to 18 inches above the hook. This will place the bait close to the bottom. Be sure not to add more weight than necessary to hold bottom, while still allowing the bait to drift naturally. Add too much weight and you’ll spend most of your time trying to dislodge the split shot from snags.
CORN
While fresh corn, yellow or white, doesn’t seem to work well at all, canned, whole-kernel, yellow corn makes a great trout bait. Some believe this is because fine-ground grains are one of the main components in fish pellets, one of which may be corn. The list of ingredients on the side of the fish pellet can does not specify which types of grains are used, but corn seems to top the list of most commercially prepared fish and animal foods. If this is indeed the case, there’s a good argument for the use of corn for trout bait, particularly during the early days of the season.
Again, the bait should completely cover the hook. Depending on the hook’s size, this may require two or possibly three kernels. Fortunately, corn has a slight negative buoyancy, therefore, only one or two split shot may be required to maintain the proper depth. If the stream or river currents are somewhat fast, more weight may be required to maintain the correct depth.
NATURAL BAITS
Worms
While some designated trout streams mandate the use of artificial lures or flies only, many stocked streams permit the use of various forms of natural bait. Obviously, before fishing any body of water, it is a good idea to carefully scrutinize the regulations pertaining to that location. If it is permissible to use live bait, then the selection is almost endless. After feeding on fish pellets for nearly a year, newly stocked trout have two options: switch to natural foods or starve to death. A week or two after stocking, most trout will eat just about anything that comes along, especially if it looks perfectly natural.
Nothing is more appealing to a hungry trout than a fat, pink, juicy garden worm floating with the currents. Even when the weather has been too cold for the worms to occur naturally, trout will instinctively pounce on a properly presented worm. The key to success is proper presentation. As with all forms of bait, the hook should be well hidden. Additionally, if a piece of split-shot is required in order to reach bottom, use just enough weight to maintain the correct depth, while still allowing the bait to drift naturally with the currents.
The worm should be cast upstream at a 45-degree angle, preferably well above the head of the pool. Just as soon as the bait hits the water, close the reel’s bail and begin a slow, deliberate retrieve. Keep sufficient tension on the line to detect the slightest strike and also to gently lift the bait over the snags.
Minnows
A few weeks into the season, trout will actively feed on minnows. While many states do not permit the use of native minnows, tiny fathead minnows are a good substitute, particularly when they measure no longer than 2 inches. The minnows can be either lip-hooked or impaled just beneath the dorsal fin, thereby keeping them alive and active as they drift through deep pools. Some anglers find that attaching a small, clear plastic float aids them in casting the minnow to the most productive locations, such as close to submerged boulders or close to an undercut segment of shoreline.
Crayfish
Small crayfish, those measuring just 1 to 2 inches in length, are great trout baits, especially as the season progresses and water temperatures begin to rise. They can be hooked through the tail and scooted across the bottom, or hooked carefully through the nose and walked over the bottom. Both techniques seem to be equally effective. Keep in mind, however, that crayfish reside and often hide beneath flat rocks; therefore, unless you keep constant tension on the line, they will quickly scurry under any suitable rock.
Hellgrammites
Hellgrammites, the larvae of dobson flies, are likely among the ugliest creatures that nature could have ever dreamed of. They have a prehensile tail, a soft black body with lots of legs and head that resembles that of a gigantic ant. Unlike a butterfly that becomes a beautiful, winged creature after metamorphosis, the dobson fly just grows wings and remains ugly. You can find them residing on the back side of partly submerged, flat rocks in most free-flowing streams. They’re not pretty, but they’re irresistible to any trout.
Hellgrammites have a hard-shell collar that is located directly behind the nasty-looking head and powerful pincers. The collar is a good place not only to hold them, but additionally, it’s a great place to insert your hook. In this particular instance, the hook will be exposed, therefore, a small No. 10, short-shanked, bronze hook will be your best bet. The hook’s color closely resembles that of the hellgrammite. The only problem trout anglers complain about when using hellgrammites is that everything in the stream seems to enjoy eating them.
As the season progresses, other forms of natural baits will become highly productive. Don’t overlook such crickets, grasshoppers, moths and various forms of insect larvae. As each of these becomes available naturally, they also become an integral part of a trout’s diet.

Fish Hatcheries and Trout Parks in Missouri

From MDC
Missouri hatcheries and trout parks not only support our state’s great fishing, they’re also fascinating places to visit. Some feature visitor centers with displays, films and exhibits. Several have tour schedules or will accept appointments for special tours. Check under "Related Information" for more information about specific hatcheries and trout parks.

Cold-Water Hatcheries and Trout Parks

Missouri’s trout hatcheries are located at each of Missouri’s four trout parks and on Lake Taneycomo. They provide high-quality trout fishing on cold-water streams in Missouri.

Warm-Water Hatcheries

Missouri’s has five hatcheries that produce warm- and cool-water fish. Lost Valley Hatchery near Warsaw is one of the nation’s most advanced and largest public hatcheries. Lost Valley is known for raising paddlefish and white bass/striped bass hybrids. Chesapeake hatchery near Mount Vernon warms its water to get catfish to spawn early, producing 12- to 14-inch catfish in one growing season. Blind Pony Hatchery near Sweet Springs is known for producing the endangered pallid sturgeon, which is being used to restore populations in the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers. Hunnewell Hatchery raises hybrid sunfish, which grow fast and large and are used in kids’ fishing clinics. Indian Trail Hatchery near Salem produces largemouth bass, bluegill and channel catfish for farm pond stocking.

Trout fishing near St Louis -Maramec Spring Park and Hatchery

Maramec Spring Hatchery produces about 100,000 trout a year, and all are stocked in Maramec Spring Park. Trout are received as 3-inch fingerlings from Shepherd of the Hills Hatchery. The trout are fed three times a day and will grow 3/4 to 1 inch a month. The fish are reared in a raceway fed by the water from Maramec Spring. The fish are stocked at a rate of 2.25 fish per tag sold and are at least 12 inches in length. An additional 40,000 trout are hauled in from Montauk Hatchery each year to be stocked in the park.
Maramec is a privately owned and operated by the James Foundation. The fishery is administered by the Missouri Department of Conservation.

Area Information

Tours

Contact the Maramec Spring Hatchery office to schedule a tour for your school group or organization. Tours must be arranged in advance. Tours usually last around 45 minutes.

Directions

Maramec Spring Park is located six miles east of St. James Missouri on Highway 8. From St. Louis: I-44 west to St. James. Highway 8 and 68 run together east through St. James. Approximately three miles out of St. James, Highway 68 turns south. Continue on Highway 8 three more miles. The park is on the left.

Lure Fishing for Trout

Artificial lure: a manufactured lure other than a fly or soft unscented plastic bait.
Soft plastic bait: synthetic eggs, synthetic worms, synthetic grubs and soft plastic lures.

Missouri Wildlife Code: Sportfishing


Lure fishing for trout doesn't exactly have much of a tradition to report on, but it sure is fun. The way to be successful fishing in this manner is fairly cut and dried. First, you should have the right equipment.

Now, while a simple Zebco-style spincast outfit may work fine, they're not always very good at casting thin flimsy line, which is a necessity. Some of the pricier spincast reels do quite nicely, but a lightweight spinning reel with a medium action 6-foot rod is a better place to start for most fishermen. Some trout fishermen swear by ultra-light set-ups, but this is not necessary. The smaller the reel, the smaller the crank ratio. The shorter the rod, the less shock absorber effect you'll have, meaning you'll have to use your drag setting and brains to avoid breaking the line. In other words, landing the fish is more challenging. Shorter rods also make it more difficult to cast a good distance.

Regardless of the rod and reel you choose, you probably shouldn't use a line any thicker than 6 pound test -- just make sure you're using a good quality line, so it will be strong and flexible. Some believe that the trout actually can see heavier line, but this is simply not the case. Trout eyes have been thoroughly examined under a microscope, and human vision is actually 14 times better. And even if they could clearly see your fishing line under water, they're probably not smart enough to care. Instead it seems that they are most often spooked by the shadow cast by the contact point of the line and the water. Next time you're fishing in clear water, take a look. Your line moving around on the surface of the water will cast a BIG shadow on the bottom of the stream. So, if you keep your rod tip down so the shadow is at your feet, you'll do fine.




With the equipment issues taken care, all you have to do is acquire the right lures, learn to cast to the right locations in the creek, and provide the right kind of action to the lure. The lure will generally represent something swimming in such a way as to trigger a trout to pursue and attempt to eat it. Perhaps the most popular option is the in-line spinner bait. A well-known example is the ever-popular Rooster Tail, but there are several other outstanding options offered under the names Blue Fox, Mepps and Panther Martin. For most Missouri streams, 1/8 oz and 1/16 oz sizes in a variety of colors will work well. In-line spinners are designed to imitate minnows and work best when retrieved in a straight line at a moderate speed. If you reel too slowly, the spinner won't spin properly, which often puts the trout off.

The next lure you should try is a little bass plug, also known as crankbaits. Small Rapala's are popular choices, but mini-crankbaits also can very productive. Look for a plug that will imitate small shiners (silver), suckers (gold), or sunfish. The beauty of using a plug is that you can experiment in a wide variety of ways. You can buy floating, sinking or neutral buoyancy plugs to help you reach different depths. If the plug has a plastic lip jutting out and downward from the front of the lure, it will swim downward when you reel. So, floating lures will swim downward until you stop reeling them, at which point they will slowly begin to float back to the surface. When you stop reeling a neutral buoyancy plug, it won't float back to the surface, and it won't sink any further -- it stops dead in the water. Sinking plugs sink, of course. They sink face first when you reel and belly first when you stop. Other than these built-in perks, the action of the lure is totally up to you. Vary your retrieve from quick to painfully slow. A straight consistent retrieve works fine, but also experiment with jerky retrieves and start & stops. If you can convince the fish that the minnow is injured and weak, it will often trigger a strike. Spoons work in much the same manner that a plug works, except that they are heavy and sink fast, so you're pretty much required to retrieve them somewhat quickly. Try working the spoon up and down in big sweeping moves.




These three types of lures -- in-line spinners, crankbaits and spoons -- are the basic lures that represent little fish. With these lures,you'll catch hatchery fish, but you'll also catch mature fish that have grown large enough that they've acquired a taste for other fish and have started hunting rather than grazing on insects. You may occasionally find trout waters that do not support a sufficient population of aquatic insects to support the resident trout. Fly fishing these streams can be very frustrating and sometimes downright impossible, unless you are using flies that imitate minnows (streamers). Lure fishing these waters, however, can be an absolute blast with almost non-stop action.




Marabou jigs (not Crappie jigs) will flat out catch trout, if you know how to fish them. Many fishermen are under the mistaken assumption that marabou jigs imitate minnows, but they actually imitate the swimming action of certain large mayfly nymphs by dancing up and down rather than side to side. In fact, a marabou jig is technically a fly and can be used on waters designated as fly-fishing only. But, this lure is best fished with a spinning outfit. Trout and salmon appear to be programmed by nature to react to this motion almost without fail, so these lures will work even when the actual mayfly they imitate is not present in the water. In fact, when marabou first became popular as a fly-tying material, some states actually outlawed its usage due to the massive success fishermen were having and how it actually depleted some trout and salmon populations.




To achieve the proper effect, cast and allow the jig the sink for a few moments. Then retrieve the jig at a slow rate while simultaneously and rapidly twitching your rod tip up and down. Rapid twitching means RAPID twitching. Your rod hand should bounce down perhaps 4x per second while your retrieve hand is making no more than one revolution per second. Try counting "one-one-thou-sand, two-one-thou-sand..." and so on, while bouncing your rod hand on each syllable. It takes a little practice to get the feel of it. Many trout fishermen are jig fisherman exclusively and can't imagine why anyone would consider fishing any other way. And with the success they enjoy, it's hard to argue with them. Favorite jig colors are white, hot pink, and black & yellow mixed. There are also those that prefer to fish these jigs under a bobber or strike indicator, just giving the lure an occasional twitch. Using this method will work better with a smaller jig -- sometimes called micro jigs -- and fished very close to the bottom. This is basically nymph fishing with a spinning rod. Cast upstream, and allow the lure to drift back toward you, passing as many fish as possible.

The last basic type of lure we'll look at here are soft plastics. Soft plastics are banned in many Missouri trout waters, which are managed for wild trout and/or trophy trout, because soft plastics cause a higher mortality rate in trout that are released. When a trout grabs most flies or lures, it recognizes right away that it doesn't feel natural and will try to dislodge it. When a trout grabs a soft plastic lure, however, it feels very natural. So, the trout's reaction is to try to toss it further back into its maw. For this reason, these lures are often very deeply hooked, causing lethal damage to the fish. From a legal standpoint, the state of Missouri considers soft plastics to be member of the bait family. So, anywhere you are permitted to bait fish for trout, you are also permitted to use soft plastics. Otherwise, they are off-limits.




The favorites include twister tails, rubber shad and specialized rubber worms designed just for trout. These are all very simple to rig and use. A small white or black twister tail or plastic shad rigged on a jig head can be cast a good distance and retrieved in a straight line at a moderately slow speed with great success. The tails of these lures offer all the action you need to trigger a strike from a hatchery fish or even a big monster looking for protein power snack. You basically fish these lures just as you would a straight-line spinner. The plastic worm is fished differently, however.

Some of these trout worms are made with a bend in their middle while others are manufactured in a straight tube form. This is to allow for distinctly different fishing methods. In either case, you'll use a small hook of size 12 or so with a small split shot sinker or two about 18" above.

Method #1: bend the worm in half at its middle and push the hook through the bend. Cast the worm and allow it to sink to the bottom. Retrieve it slowly with a sharp twitch of the rod tip every second or two. If you get a bite, you'll probably set the hook automatically when you twitch it.

Method #2: thread the worm onto the hook so the worm lies flat. The point of the hook should be a bit exposed, and the eye of the hook should be hidden inside the worm. In a section of the stream with a rocky bottom and minimal vegetation, cast the worm and allow it to sink to the bottom. Retrieve it extremely, almost painfully, slowly without twitching. You will feel the weight of the rocks against the sinker from time to time, but just keep reeling slowly -- no jerking. The line will wrap around a rock and the worm will dangle downstream from the rock, appearing to swim upstream. Once the worm comes around the rock, it will be washed back downstream until the line again wraps around a rock. It will then begin swimming upstream again. So, the big picture is this. The worm swims up, flips down, swims up, flips down, and so on. It's truly neat. It's very important that you use small sinkers with this presentation. Larger sinkers will get hung up on the rocks. So, instead of using one large sinker, use several small sinkers. It's also important that you use a heavier line, since the rocks will wear on the line due to friction.

Method #3: rig the worm as in method #2, above. Cast into a deep pool with a slow current (see Where to Fish. Again reel the worm in slowly. Keep your rod tip up and try to keep an eye on the worm. Every couple of seconds, give the worm a few twitches with the rod tip. If you can see the worm as you reel it in, you'll begin to grasp how alive these things can look with just a little twitch here and there. Experiment with the action to achieve the "swimmiest" look you can. Here's the kicker on this one. This retrieve will get every fish's attention in the stream. At some point, a fish will grab the worm and try to run away with it hanging from the corner of his mouth. Instantaneously, every other fish in the river will want that worm. So, if you attempt to set the hook and instead pull the worm out of the fish's mouth, let the worm sit right there without a move for a couple of seconds. Very often, another fish will viciously attack it, and the fight is on! Very exciting.

With all of the lures reviewed on this page, focus your attention on the deeper water immediately below riffles or rapids.


The chutes just below Tan Vat Access on the Current River as they turn into a
very nice stretch of good lure-fishing water. Double-check regulations before
you fish Red and Blue Ribbon Waters. Certain lures are often forbidden

Fly Fishing for Trout

Definition of a fly: a lure constructed on a single-point hook of feathers, tinsel, chenille, yarn, fur, hair, silk, rayon or nylon thread or floss, with or without spinner.

Missouri Wildlife Code: Sport Fishing


All fishing is enjoyable, but catching a trout on an artificial fly is one of the most rewarding and exciting experiences one can imagine. Those that appreciate flyfishing in its purest sense are the same sort of folks that prefer bow hunting to rifle hunting, backpacking to pay-site camping, and wilderness areas to state parks. This doesn't mean that a fly fisherman never rifle hunts, camps at a pay site, or visits a state park. It's just that their hearts usually lie elsewhere. If you are one of those people that enjoy the journey more than the destination, then you should give fly fishing a try.

For the fly fishing purist, the act is more of a religious experience than a hobby. And while we're fly fishing, there is a sense of following in some great historical person's footsteps, reliving someone else's notable experience, a feeling of being tied into something more significant than just trying to catch a fish. And these nondescript feelings are actually amplified when we fish in utter isolation. It's the sense that we're actually doing something truly breathtaking. However, if you define a successful day of fishing as a day when you can fill your freezer, then perhaps fly fishing is not for you. There's no right or wrong in it, it's just a matter of preference. Fly fishing is not for everyone.

Many people don't realize that fly fishing in some form has literally existed for thousands of years. An ancient Roman historian by the name of Claudius Aelianus, who made his reputation as a military writer (think "war correspondent" for the Roman army), documented fly fishing by the Macedonians more than 1800 years ago in the following manner:

"They do not use flies for bait, for if a man's hand touch them they lose their natural color, their wings wither, and they become unfit food for the fish. Instead, they fasten crimson wool around a hook and fix on to the wool two feathers that grow under a cock's wattles and which in color are like wax. Their rods are six feet long, and their line is the same length. Then they throw their snare, and the fish, attracted and maddened by the color, comes straight at it, thinking from the lovely sight to gain a dainty mouthful. However, when it opens its jaws, it is caught by the hook and enjoys a bitter repast as a captive."

Is that cool, or what? Of course, no can be certain, but it also appears as if they were actually trout fishermen. Claudius Aelianus described the fish as having a "spotted exterior", and he identified the river in question as the Astracus River, which holds brown trout to this day.


This Mosaic is perhaps 1900 years old. Note the flimsy fishing rods and landing
nets. Look familiar? Could this be a picture of flyfishing Macedonians?


Fast forward 1890 years or so. Flyfishing is somewhat popular, but not yet considered terribly romantic. And then... THE MOVIE is released, and all hell breaks loose. Once the "girlfriends" started swooning over Norman and Paul Maclean and their Montana flyfishing adventures, the "boyfriends" started buying new equipment, running out to the rivers to slap the water with their El Cheapo brand plastic flyline. Of course, it didn't help that Brad Pitt was in the movie. For all we know, the real Norman and Paul could have been butt ugly, but noooo, they had to cast Brad Pitt!

A River Runs Through It (the movie more so than the book), did a spectacular job of explaining the allure of flyfishing to those who knew nothing about it. Without clouding the action with words, the movie made it very clear what the fisherman was seeing, thinking and feeling, and the rationale behind the problem-solving and decision-making was all communicated by facial expressions and pause. It somehow managed to explain to many exactly why folks like us are obsessed. Many thousands of non-fishing spouses exclaimed, "Oh! Now I get it!" And to us obsessed fly-fishermen, this was a beautiful sound.

The movie really helped the sport. Our trout streams are now more likely than ever to be protected by our legislatures, because there are now many more voices screaming for just that very thing. And, it forces us old-timer flyfishermen to seek out more secluded, wild and challenging waters to avoid the crowds of newbies. And our wives now think we're just a little bit more like Brad Pitt. All in all, it's a win-win situation. Thank you Robert Redford.

Want to try your hand at flyfishing? Here's what you need to get started. Start with an inexpensive graphite flyrod and a simple fly reel. If you look around, you can probably find a painfully cheap fiberglass flyrod combo for less than $40, and that's not a bad idea if you're buying a rod just out of curiosity. If you are seriously interested, though, you should try something a bit higher in the quality department. Regardless of where you purchase your first outfit, expect most combo's to have nylon backing and some ordinary fly line included -- the backing is tied to the reel, and the fly line is tied to the backing.


You'll also need to buy some leader material, which can actually be pretty confusing. Your fly line is big, bulky and easily seen by fish. The leader, which is simply specialized fishing line, attaches to the end of the fly line by way of a prefabricated loop, an inserted metal eyelet, or a simple nail knot (not that a nail knot is simple). Your leader should taper down in down size with the thickest portion (the butt end) attaching to the fly line and the thinnest portion attaching to the fly.

 


If you're fishing most Missouri waters, you can get by with a 7-1/2 foot tapered leader in size 5x (usually about 4 pound test). For more challenging waters or more difficult fish, you'll want to use a longer leader -- it's your first weapon against edgier fish. Onto the end of the leader, you'll attach an additional length of line in 6x (usually 3 pound test) using a blood knot, nested loops, or nested cinch knots. You can also add some 7x (even smaller) onto the 6x, if you're fishing very small flies. This additional line you add to your leader is called your "tippet".

The purpose of tapering your leader is three-fold. First, it allows for the fly to roll over properly when you cast. Second, it helps your fly tumble naturally in the current and appear natural. Third, if a fish (or tree) breaks your line, it will break at the weakest point, meaning it will break closer to your fly, thus saving most of your leader. The smaller the fly you're using, the smaller your tippet should be. A 6x tippet will work fine casting flies size 12 through 20, and a 7x tippet will work fine for sizes 16 through 24. If you're fishing a fly smaller than a #24 in Missouri waters, you're just making your life too difficult.

This brings us to the fly, of course. There's a favorite debate that fly fishermen apparently enjoy. If you could only have "x" number of flies, what would you keep in your box? Well, if I didn't know where I was going to fish in Missouri, and I could only carry 10 fly patterns, here is what I'd take (click for pics):

Adams dry fly in size 12-22
Elk Hair Caddis dry fly in size 14-20
Pheasant Tail nymph in size 14-18
Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear nymph in size 10-16
Stonefly nymphs in size 8-16 (in various colors)
Wooly Bugger streamer in size 6-12 (in various colors)
Scud in size 12-18 (in various colors)
Hopper terrestrial dry fly in size 8-12
Glo-bug wet flies in size 10-14 (in various colors)
Soft Hackle wet flies in size 12-18 (in various colors)

If you're an avid fly-fisher, some of your favorite patterns are certainly not listed here, but a box stocked with this menu of flies will catch you fish on pretty much any Missouri trout stream.

Aside from these basic requirements, you'll, of course, need some additional equipment and accessories. You'll need a decent pair of waders, a vest, some fly boxes, some polarized sunglasses, and perhaps a landing net. Big box stores like Walmart, Kmart and Target (if they're within 30 minutes of a trout stream) should have these items in stock. But if you seek out an actual fly shop, you'll get some extra perks for giving them your business. Aside from free tips and advice, many offer fly tying lessons and casting lessons free or cheap.

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Sanctuary Outdoor Products: Great Trout Fishing Near St. Louis

Sanctuary Outdoor Products: Great Trout Fishing Near St. Louis: "Maramec Spring is an exceptionally beautiful spring and produces an average of 96,000,000 gallons of water per day. The spring branch ..."

Great Trout Fishing Near St. Louis

Maramec Spring is an exceptionally beautiful spring and produces an average of 96,000,000 gallons of water per day.  The spring branch here is a mile long, with no fishing allowed upstream of the road bridge.  Unlike the other three Missouri trout parks, Maramec has no separate fishing zones. Owned and operated by the foundation authorized and funded up by Mrs. Lucy Wortham James, 300 of the park's 1800 acres are available for public use. From 1826 to 1876, this area was the site of Maramec Iron Works, the first successful ironworks west of the Mississippi. In addition to trout fishing, Maramec Spring Park has a nice reception center, cafe, campground, picnic areas, two museums, playgrounds, hiking trails, tennis courts, and the historic ironworks for which it is so well known. For more information about Maramec Spring, be sure to see the website of The James Foundation located at www.maramecspringpark.com or call the James Foundation office at (573) 265-7124.  The hatchery office telephone number is (573) 265-7801, and you can reach the Maramec Museum at (573) 265-3527.

Justin Cox
http://Blueribbonlures.com