Texas Rig Instructions

Texas Rig Instructions

The "Texas Rig" refers to a way of riging your bait. It is one of the most common rigs used while fishing with soft plastics. One of the reasons it's so popular is because it's almost completely weedless. This rig is great for fishing in and around weeds and heavy cover.

What you need

1. Worm hook
2. Plastic Worm
3. Bullet Weight

How To rig it

Power Bait Trout RIgs

PowerBait Trout Dough Bait

PowerBait Trout Dough Bait comes in a variety of colors and scents. Depending on your area, one color and/or scent may be preferred over others.
As a general rule, we use two in particular - Glitter Trout Dough Bait Rainbow with Garlic Scent and Glitter Trout Dough Bait Rainbow with Extra Scent.
We have discovered the extra scent and the different colors along with the glitter tend to trigger more strikes in the ponds we fish.
That said, we also bring a container of pink PowerBait Trout Dough Bait as a back up; pink is one color missing in the Rainbow offering.
To fish the PowerBait Trout Dough Bait, the Team uses four fishing rigs which are described in the sections below.
Do check them out and let us know if they work for you this Season!

PowerBait - Trout Dough Bait

List Price: $5.99

Trout Fishing Rig Components

Components for the Trout Fishing Rigs

The photo in the sidebar shows the components used for the four Trout Fishing Rigs used by the Field Team.
In addition, the following is a list of the components for your reference:

1. Three 1/8oz Bullet Weights
2. One 3/0 Split Shot
3. One #6 Split Shot
4. Three Beads
5. Two Small Barrel Swivels (or Snap Swivels)
6. Four Treble Hooks (size 14-20)

These are the basic components used to make the four Trout Fishing Rigs. However, the weight of the Bullet Weights and the size and/or number of Split Shot used can be modified based on the existing conditions such as wind, current flow, and casting distance.

4lbs Fishing Line

Fishing Line

For ease of illustration, we are using a yellow Dacron line to make the Trout Fishing Rigs described in this article.
When fishing, we use 4-6 lbs test monofilament fishing line. More often, the brand is Stren or Trilene; whatever happens to be on sale at our local sporting goods store.

Trout Fishing Rig #1 Components

Threading the Bead

Completed Bead

Trout Fishing Rig #1

Trout Fishing Rig #1

The first of the four Trout Fishing Rigs described in this article uses a Bullet Weight, a Bead, and a Hook.
To make this rig, begin by threading the fishing line through the Bullet Weight, pointed end toward your reel.
Next, thread the fishing line through the Bead from one end.
And then, double the fishing line back, and thread it through the Bead a second time.
The fishing line should pass through the same end when threaded through the Bead the first time.

^{When the fishing line is tightened, the Bead should look like the picture in the sidebar - "Completed Bead".
Also, allow for 12-18 inches of fishing line on the tag end. If you need to increase the tag end, loosen the line through the bead and adjust to the desired length.}

Finally, using an improved clinch knot, tie the hook to the tag end. Refer to the picture in the sidebar - "Trout Fishing Rig #1" to see the completed rig.
This is a quick rig to tie and allows for adjusting the tag end (leader) by loosening the loop through the Bead.
When used with an Ultralight Fishing Rod, it casts easily and makes for long cast when needed.
It also is sensitive to light strikes as the line slips through the weight minimizing drag, which will increase hook ups with finicky Trout.
The drawback... it is limited in strength because of the loop created by the Bead. It should only be used where small Rainbow Trout are stocked (9-13 inch Trout).
If larger Rainbow Trout are in the area, better to use Trout Fishing Rig #2 or Trout Fishing Rig #3.

Trout Fishing Rig #2 Components

Trout Fishing Rig #2

Trout Fishing Rig #2

The second Trout Fishing Rig uses a Bullet Weight, Bead, a small Swivel, and a Hook.
To make this rig, begin by threading the fishing line through the Bullet Weight, pointed end toward your reel.
Next, thread the fishing line through the Bead, and then, using an improved clinch knot, tie the small Swivel to the fishing line.
Then, measure 12-18 inches of fishing line to make a leader; and then, cut and tie it to the other end of the small Swivel.
Finally, tie the tag end of the leader to the Hook. Refer to the picture in the sidebar - "Trout Fishing Rig #2" to see the completed rig.
This rig takes a little longer to tie compared to Trout Fishing Rig #1 and does not readily allow for ease of adjusting the leader's length. However, it will handle larger Rainbow Trout!
It is sensitive to light strikes as the line slips through the weight minimizing drag like in Trout Fishing Rig #1.
It's drawback is when fished in rivers with a strong current the rig may slip and result in missed hook sets. When this happens, use Trout Fishing Rig #3.

Trout Fishing Rig #3 Components

Trout Fishing Rig #3

Trout Fishing Rig #3

The third Trout Fishing Rig uses a small #6 Split Shot, a Bullet Weight, a Bead, a small Swivel, and a Hook.
To make this rig, follow the same steps as Trout Fishing Rig #2.
Then, push the Bullet Weight and Bead against the small Swivel.
Finally, attach the small #6 Split Shot about two inches from the Bullet Weight. Refer to the picture in the sidebar - "Trout Fishing Rig #3" to see the completed rig.
By adding the small #6 Split Shot, the rig will handle stronger currents and lessen the likelihood of a slack line caused by the current.

Trout Fishing Rig #4 Components

Trout Fishing Rig #4

Trout Fishing Rig #4

The fourth Trout Fishing Rig is the simplest to setup, using a 3/0 Split Shot and a Hook.
To make this rig, attach the hook to the fishing line with an improved clinch knot.
And then, measure 12-18 inches from the hook and attach the 3/0 Split Shot.
That's it... refer to the picture in the sidebar - "Trout Fishing Rig #4" to see the completed rig.
This rig is the least sensitive of all the rigs described because the fishing line does not slip through the weight and the fish will feel drag against the weight.
However, it will handle larger Rainbow Trout. It uses a minimum of components (a hook and a split shot). More weight can be added as conditions require. And, it is quick to setup especially with cold fingers in freezing weather!

15 Tips to Reduce FLIES Around the Chicken Coop

15 Tips to Reduce FLIES Around the Chicken Coop

15 Tips to Reduce FLIES Around the Chicken Coop

by

Kathy Shea Mormino

When keeping chickens or other animals,
flies are an expected nuisance, but there are steps that can be taken to
reduce the overall fly population, thereby limiting the risks of disease
they carry. Flies thrive in warm, moist, "fragrant" environments and
different types of flies require different elimination tactics, making a
multi-pronged strategy necessary. So...let's roll one out!

1. Remove the Poop: Promptly remove nightly droppings from the chicken coop. A droppings board
is the best solution to this stinky fly attractant and it takes less
than a minute daily to scrape it down & add the manure to the
compost pile.

2. Sand for the Driest Coop Possible: Use sand as chicken coop litter and run ground cover. Sand coats droppings and dries them out, reducing odors and moisture simultaneously.

3. Plant Warfare: 

• Plant herbs around your coop and yard. Basil, lavender, mint and rosemary are all natural fly repellents.
• Grow some carniverous plants that eat flies. 

4. Spice it Up: Herb it up is closer to the point: add herbs to your chicken coop- fresh or dried. I make Spruce the Coop Herbal Fusion comprised of many insect-repellent herbs and sprinkle it in the nest boxes and coop.

I put fresh stalks of rosemary inside my chicken coop during the growing season.

5. Clean Up After Snack Time: When giving chickens sweet treats, especially when trying to help them beat the summer heat, don't leave sticky, sweet remnants behind that will attract flies. Clean up the rinds & compost them.

6. Keep it Dry: Eliminate stagnant, warm, pooling water, which serves as breeding grounds for flies. Install drainage where necessary.

7. Employ Insects:  Fly Predators are
tiny, non-stinging wasps that eat fly larva so they have no chance of
hatching & becoming adult pests. The challenge with Fly Predators is
that chickens love eating them, so they must be strategically placed. 

8. Compost manure vertically
instead of horizontally in a wide pile. This increases the compost
temperature, expedites decomposition and minimizes the amount of surface
area exposed and fly-attracting odors.

9. Dial up Compost Temperature:
Cover compost with black plastic sheeting to increase the temperature
inside the pile. Flies like it warm, not hot. Turning the pile also
keeps the pile cooking because the process requires oxygen.

10. Keep It Moving: Install fans to promote airflow inside the coop. It's tough to fly with a lot of air turbulence.

11. Move Compost Pile: Locate compost pile as far away from the chicken coop and yard as practical. 

12. Eliminate Dirty, Wet Hay: Either compost soiled hay or spread it out on the ground on a sunny day to dry it out (moisture+ smell=fly attractant).

13.  Vanilla scented air fresheners. Some chicken-keepers swear by them. Read more about using them them here.

14. Fly traps. Each type of
physical fly trap has its drawbacks: some are stinky, nasty to look at
and some are costly, but most are effective to varying degrees.

• The type of inexpensive, disposable trap shown below should be hung no higher than four feet from the ground. They're stinky, but they work. 

• The Epps Biting Fly Trap attracts
  flies that bonk into the unit, fall into soapy water and drown. My
  neighbor has been using hers for years and can't say enough good things
  about it. A visit to her chickens and horses is remarkably fly-free. You
  can see my neighbor's Epps unit in this photo behind Scooby, the white
  horse enjoying a dust bath. 

15. Biological Warfare: Use an all-natural, organic, live enzyme purifying/cleaning solution such as Farm 360
to expedite the decomposition of organic waste. By breaking down
organic waste, odor-causing compounds are eliminated, ammonia is
neutralized and the coop and yard are healthier for chickens to live in
without those pesky flies around.