Crappie Fishing in Missouri

Crappie Fishing in Missouri

Crappie Killer by Blue Ribbon Lures

They're pretty much everywhere in Missouri

Crappie are common in most of Missouri's large reservoirs, rivers,
and streams, as well as many smaller public and private ponds.

When and how to catch them

Spring—fish the shallows

In spring when crappie are spawning in the shallows, anyone can cast a
minnow and bobber toward the bank and catch a ton of fish. Crappie may
spawn as early as mid-March in the southern part of the state and as
late as the end of May in northern Missouri. The spawn generally occurs
when water temperatures reach 55F. The depth at which crappie spawn
depends on water clarity. In stained or muddy water, they may spawn as
shallow as 1 or 2 feet. In exceptionally clear water, they may spawn as
deep as 20 feet or more.


During the spring spawning period, use a trolling motor to move
slowly and quietly close to the shoreline. Flip a small (1/32 to 1/16
ounce) jig into the shallow water along the shore. Move slowly and hit
every nook and cranny around rocks, woody debris and vegetation. Pea
gravel banks are also preferred spawning locations. Once you locate
crappie, stop and continue fishing that spot until the fish stop biting
or they’re not big enough to suit you. If a spring cold front sends
crappie out to deeper water, concentrate on steep banks. Crappie won't
be very far off the bank.


On waters that get high fishing pressure, try casting a tiny jig
right onto the bank, retrieving the bait with the rod tip straight in
the air, and erratically jerking the bait near cover on the bank. You
often get strikes right next to the boat after the crappie follow the
bait back.

Summer—move to deeper water or try night fishing

Post-spawn through September, crappie tend to stay in brush located
in 15 to 20 feet of water, about 10 or 15 feet down. Concentrate on
standing timber along creek channels and on brush piles out on the main
lake. Vertical jigging works well when fishing the brush.


Fishing around concrete bridge piers is a productive technique for
catching crappie in Missouri’s large reservoirs during summer. Focus on
piers in water at least 20 feet deep. Vertically jig a minnow next to
the pier beginning at a depth of about ten feet and slowly work deeper
until you locate fish. If you’re not successful in locating and catching
fish after several attempts, move to another pier.


Fish deeper brush near the thermocline (where the water suddenly gets
cooler with depth) during hot summer months with split shot, a light
wire hook and a small shiner or fathead minnow hung over the side of the
boat.


During the hot Missouri months of July and August, try night fishing
for crappie! Artificial lights such as floodlights on docks, street
lights and commercially available floating and submersible lights
attract insects and small baitfish that will in turn attract crappie.
Fish much as you would during the daylight hours with either minnows or
artificial baits, fishing at different depths until you locate fish.

Fall—try the docks

Crappie are generally very predictable and aggressive in October and
November. Docks are a prime location for fall crappie, where they can be
caught in the upper 10 feet of the water column.


Cast into the back of a boat slip or along the edges, letting the jig
sink for 2 or 3 seconds, and then retrieve slowly. Crappie will also
move into shallow water on warm days in the fall, where you can catch
them in the same brush piles they inhabit during the spawn.

Winter—enjoy some of the best fishing of the year

Unfortunately, many anglers stow away the boat and fishing tackle
before the first snow flies. Those who don’t can experience some of the
best fishing of the year and have their favorite lake all to themselves.


You can find crappie in deep water (20 to 40 feet) in the winter, but
they will move into shallower water during a string of warm days. The
key to catching crappie in the winter is to use a very slow retrieve. In
cold water, crappie will not chase a fast-moving lure like they will
during the warmer months.


In addition, winter crappie tend to congregate in large, dense
schools near structure instead of scattering in loose schools over a
large area. Casts to one side of a brush pile may yield nothing while
the other side may produce a fish on nearly every cast.

Tackle and technique

If you talk to a dozen crappie anglers, you will likely get a dozen
different opinions regarding the best way to catch them, the best jig
color, the best line to use, and so on. In reality, two anglers in the
same boat can be using two completely different techniques and baits,
and they will both be catching fish. The key is to not get stuck on any
one approach. Experiment until you find a technique that works for you. I usually begin with different colored tube jigs or the Crappie Killer.


Crappie are attracted to woody cover regardless of the time of year. A
good rule of thumb is to fish shallow during spring and fall, then fish
deep during summer and winter. However, a string of warm days in
January can send fish into water less than 5 feet deep, while a strong
cold front in April can send them to the depths for a few days. When
trying to locate crappie, target brush piles or other cover at a variety
of depths, and let the fish tell you what depth they prefer on a given
day.


When crappie are active, they will hit a bait presented in close
proximity to cover. When they are not so active, you may need to get
your bait down into the brush to be successful. The two most effective
ways to do this are vertical jigging and casting. A weedless jig works
best for these types of presentation.

Vertical jigging

To fish a bait vertically, simply drop it straight down into the
brush until it hits bottom. Then slowly reel up until you get a bite.
Note the depth at which you get a bite and concentrate on fishing at
that depth. Another productive method is to use a very small jigging
spoon. Fish vertically over deep brush and raise and lower your jigging
spoon 1-2 feet. Crappie will often hit the spoon on the fall while it is
fluttering. This is a good technique to use when you run out of minnows
or simply get tired of re-baiting your hook.

Casting

When fishing shallow brush or in very clear water, you may need to
back away from the brush and cast. Toss your bait past the brush and let
it sink to the bottom on a tight line. Slowly retrieve until you
contact the brush. When you feel your bait come over a limb, let it sink
again. Keep doing this until you clear the brush. By doing this, your
lure is actually penetrating down into brush instead of just skimming
along the outer edges.

Bobbers

These are not just for young or inexperienced anglers. There are days
when crappie will only pick up a jig or minnow that is hovering nearly
motionless. Again, you may need to experiment with the depth of your
bait to find the fish.

Bluegill Fishing Tips

Bluegill Fishing

Brim Reaper by Blue Ribbon Lures

Bluegill are relatively easy to catch, especially if you are using
the proper tackle, bait and technique. Following a few basic principles
will greatly increase your success at catching bluegill.

Tackle selection—the lighter the tackle, the better

The bluegill has a small mouth, even when it reaches adulthood. Young
bluegill, like most small fish, feed on tiny, aquatic invertebrates
called zooplankton. As bluegill grow, they’re able to eat larger
creatures, such as insects. Bluegill are sight feeders and feed
primarily during daylight hours.


Bluegill do not grow to huge sizes, so select your rod and reel
accordingly. An ultra-light rod and reel with light line will allow you
to feel the bluegill's bite more effectively, and you will catch more
fish. In clear water, light line is less likely to be detected by fish.
Line weights from 2- to 6-pound test work best.

Bait and hooks—keep them small

Regardless of whether you use live bait or lures, you will need to
keep them small if you want to catch a lot of bluegill. Hook sizes from
No. 6 to No. 10 are most effective. Hooks with long shanks will allow
you to more easily remove them from the bluegill's tiny mouth, and thin
wire hooks work best for holding small baits. Live bait works especially
well for bluegill. The most common baits are worms and night crawlers
because they are readily available and bluegill love them. The key is to
use only a piece of a worm—just enough to cover the hook. Other
productive baits include crickets, grasshoppers, red wrigglers and meal
worms. Artificial lures also work well for bluegill. The Brim Reaper might be the best lure made for bluegill. Some of the best
lures are black jigs (1/32 ounce and smaller) and tiny spinners. Small
flies and poppers are very effective and can be used while flyfishing or
in conjunction with a bobber for easy casting.

Techniques—whatever works for you

Bluegill can be caught with a variety of techniques, all of which can
be effective under the right conditions. The key is to use a technique
you’re confident with and enjoy.

• Bobber fishing—The most popular technique for
  catching bluegill in spring and summer is the bobber and worm or Brim Reaper. This
  method is not only popular because it is easy, especially for kids, but
  because it works. Bluegill don't like to chase their food, so a slow or
  almost motionless presentation is often best. A small bait hanging below
  a bobber is usually more than a bluegill can resist. Be sure to use a
  small bobber—just big enough to float your bait. If your bobber is too
  large, the bluegill will feel the resistance and spit out the bait.
  Setting your bobber from 1 to 3 feet deep will usually do the trick, but
  if fish are deeper you will need to fish deeper. Slip bobbers are a
  must for the serious bluegill angler because they allow you to fish at
  any depth. I prefer a split shot about 6 inches above my Brim Reaper.
• Bottom fishing—Another effective technique is to
  cast your bait and let it slowly sink to the bottom. Use as little
  weight as possible so that your bait sinks slowly and so bluegill don't
  feel resistance when they pick it up. Using an ultra-light rod and reel
  with light line will allow you to cast your bait with no weight at all.
  If your bait sinks slowly, bluegill will often bite as it is sinking. If
  your bait makes it to the bottom without a bite, watch your line
  closely for a sign that a bluegill has picked your bait off the bottom.
  If you don't get a bite in a few minutes, reel in and cast to a
  different spot. This technique is especially effective when bluegill are
  in deeper water in early spring or following a cold spell.
• Drift fishing—A very effective method for catching
  bluegill, especially in late summer when bluegill are often suspended in
  open water, is to drift across the lake in a boat with baits down 10 to
  15 feet. Because bluegill will likely be found in schools, repeatedly
  drift through those areas where you have caught fish.
• Fly fishing—Although you may think fly fishing is
  for trout, it is also one of the most effective, exciting ways to catch
  bluegill. Because small insects are a major part of the bluegill's diet,
  an artificial fly resembling these insects is usually irresistible.
  Bluegill are not as picky as some trout, so most fly patterns will work.
  The best flies are typically small and black.

Location—fish where the bluegill are

Using the proper tackle, bait and technique is critical in catching
bluegill, but it is important to know where to find bluegill in a lake,
depending on the season. Because bluegill use different habitats at
different times of the year, the best locations in spring probably won't
be as good in late summer or winter.

• Spring and early summer—Bluegill spawn in spring
  and early summer, and this is a good time to catch them. When water
  temperatures exceed 70F, begin looking for spawning bluegill in shallow
  water. The tell-tale "elephant tracks"—groups of nearly round craters
  that mark spawning nests—will give away their location. Once you find a
  spawning colony, take care not to spook the bluegill as you fish. Cast
  beyond the nests and retrieve your bait through the colony. Male
  bluegill will guard nests against intruders and will aggressively take
  small lures.
• Late summer—You can readily catch bluegill after
  the spawning season, when they move into deeper water as summer
  progresses. In summer, bluegill can be found along the edges of weed
  beds, around brush piles, stake-beds and flooded timber, especially if
  deeper water is nearby. Bluegill are commonly found in water more than
  10 feet deep in summer and typically hang just above the thermocline
  (the depth where water temperature changes dramatically and below which
  oxygen levels are usually low). Best fishing is usually in the morning
  and evening when the fish are most active.
• Fall—Look for bluegill in the same locations as
  late summer and also fish shallower water near weed beds, brush or other
  types of cover. While morning and evening are the best times to fish
  during summer, midday fishing success often improves as water cools in
  the fall.
• Winter—Look for bluegill in water 12 to 20 feet
  deep. They school near underwater structures, usually near the bottom.
  Bluegill do not feed as actively in winter, so be sure to use small
  baits and slow presentation. Using light tackle and line is also
  essential because bluegill bite very lightly in winter, and these bites
  would go undetected with less sensitive tackle.

Finding a good lake or pond

If you just want to catch a lot of fish regardless of size, most
lakes and ponds will provide ample bluegill action.


Don't overlook farm ponds! Some of the best bluegill fishing can be
found in ponds, and many of the biggest bluegill on record were caught
in farm ponds. To find a good pond, talk with other anglers and pond
owners to get some tips. Always ask permission to fish on private ponds.

Ice fishing for bluegill

Ice fishing in Missouri is usually restricted to the northern part of
the state and varies in duration from year to year. When conditions are
right, bluegill fishing can be fast and furious through the ice. Look
for actively feeding bluegill near the bottom around weed beds,
brushpiles, and points in water 12 to 15 feet deep. It is helpful to
note these locations during summer fishing trips. You can also use a
portable depth finder when ice fishing to look for brushpiles and check
depth. Fishing is usually best soon after the ice forms and slows as
winter progresses and ice thickens. When fishing has slowed in mid to
late winter, concentrate fishing effort during dawn and dusk hours.
Fishing can be very slow during mid day but outstanding at dawn and
dusk. Never judge the quality of ice fishing on a lake until you have
fished the last half hour of daylight.


Ice fishing requires some special gear. If the ice isn't too thick, a
spud bar will work. An ice auger works best in most situations and will
allow you to easily move to different locations until you find the
right spot. Carry a dipper to clear the hole of ice chips after drilling
and to keep the hole ice-free while fishing. A sled is very handy to
haul around your gear and carry your fish. Ice-fishing rods are short
(often made from broken rod tips) and often with pegs instead of reels.
Using a small bait and hook is especially important in winter because
fish, including bluegill, are not aggressive and don't feed as much.
Standard gear for bluegill includes small, brightly colored hooks (often
called tear drops), a small bobber just large enough to suspend your
bait, and live bait such as wax worms, meal worms, mousies or goldenrod
grubs. Set the bobber so your bait is within a foot of the bottom. Every
30 seconds or so twitch your lure a little—this will often induce a
bite. You must watch your bobber closely because bluegill, like many
fish, bite very lightly in winter.